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Surfing scientist

机译:冲浪科学家

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Surfing is often seen as a romantic retreat to the wild ocean among seals and dolphins - finding yourself no longer at the apex of the food chain. But in The World in the Curl, I and my co-author and fellow historian, Peter Neushul, are trying to show that surfing is caught up with industry, technology and commerce. In the morning I check conditions on my laptop, then paddle out in a neoprene wetsuit on an ultralight board. The technology connects us to nature but also changes our relationship with it. The popularization of surfing over the past century is linked to the evolution of surfboard design. Early surfers in Hawaii used giant redwood planks. To drag a 50-kilogram chunk of wood across the beach, then wrestle it through walls of white water, you had to be a phenomenal athlete. These days you can get a 2.5-kg board made of polyurethane foam, fibreglass and resin. There was early experimentation with balsa wood, which is light until it absorbs water and sinks. In 1928, surfer Tom Blake devised a hollow wooden surfboard that was probably inspired by the wing of the Lockheed Vega aeroplane. But the real revolution came from synthetic materials made during wartime.
机译:冲浪通常被视为在海豹和海豚之间向野生海洋的浪漫休憩地-不再处于食物链的顶端。但是在我与我的合著者,历史学家彼得·诺舒尔(Peter Neushul)的《卷毛世界》中,我试图证明冲浪已被工业,技术和商业赶上了。早晨,我检查笔记本电脑的状况,然后穿上超轻板上的氯丁橡胶潜水衣。技术将我们与自然联系在一起,但也改变了我们与自然的关系。在过去的一个世纪中,冲浪的普及与冲浪板设计的发展息息相关。夏威夷的早期冲浪者使用巨型红木板。要将一块50公斤的木头拖到海滩上,然后穿过白水墙摔跤,您必须是一名出色的运动员。如今,您可以得到一块2.5公斤的聚氨酯泡沫,玻璃纤维和树脂制成的板。早期对轻木进行了试验,轻木直到吸收水分并下沉为止。 1928年,冲浪者汤姆·布雷克(Tom Blake)设计了一个空心的木制冲浪板,其灵感可能来自洛克希德·维加飞机的机翼。但是真正的革命来自战时制造的合成材料。

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  • 来源
    《Nature》 |2013年第7476期|341-341|共1页
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  • 收录信息 美国《科学引文索引》(SCI);美国《工程索引》(EI);美国《生物学医学文摘》(MEDLINE);美国《化学文摘》(CA);
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