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Hindcast of breaking waves and its impact at an island sheltered coast, Karwar

机译：碎浪及其对一个岛屿保护海岸卡瓦尔海岸的影响

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摘要

Variability in the characteristics of depth-induced wave breakers along a non-uniform coastal topography and its impact on the morpho-sedimentary processes is examined at the island sheltered wave-dominated micro-tidal coast, Karwar, west coast of India. Waves are simulated using the coupled wind wave model, SWAN nested in WAVEWATCH III, forced by the reanalysis winds from different sources (NCEP/NCAR, ECMWF, and NCEP/CFSR). Impact of the wave breakers is evaluated through mean longshore current and sediment transport for various wave energy conditions across different coastal morphology. Study revealed that the NCEP/CFSR wind is comparatively reasonable in simulation of nearshore waves using the SWAN model nested by 2D wave spectra generated from WAVEWATCH III. The Galvin formula for estimating mean longshore current using the crest wave period and the Kamphuis approximation for longshore sediment transport is observed realistically at the sheltered coastal environment while the coast interacts with spilling and plunging breakers.
机译：在印度西海岸的Karwar岛庇护波为主的微潮海岸，研究了沿非均匀沿海地形的深度感应波阻隔器特征的变化及其对形态沉积过程的影响。使用来自不同来源（NCEP / NCAR，ECMWF和NCEP / CFSR）的再分析风强迫使用耦合在WAVEWATCH III中的SWAN耦合风波模型模拟波。通过沿不同海岸形态的各种波浪能条件下的平均近岸流和泥沙输送来评估防波堤的影响。研究表明，使用由WAVEWATCH III生成的二维波谱嵌套的SWAN模型，NCEP / CFSR风在模拟近岸波中相对合理。在有遮盖的沿海环境中，当海岸与溢出和暴跌的破碎机相互作用时，实际上观察到了使用波峰周期估计平均近岸海流的高尔文公式和对近岸沉积物的Kamphuis近似。

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