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Experimental investigation on sea ripple evolution over sloping beaches

机译：坡滩海纹演变的实验研究

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This paper reports on a wave flume experimental campaign carried out to investigate the appearance, the growth and the migration of small scale bedforms on a sloping sandy bed due to both regular and random waves. A Vectrino Profiler along with a structured light approach were used for velocity and morphodynamic measurements at two positions, one located above the horizontal bed, and the other one above the sloping beach. The velocity was computed by phase averaging the velocity measurements. Several velocity profiles were analyzed, identifying an offshore-directed steady current that extends from few centimeters above the bottom for all the analyzed water column. Ripple geometry was measured by a structured light approach and compared with that predicted by several models to shed light on the effects induced by the sloping beach on the shape and asymmetry. Along the sloping beach, the ripples appeared strongly asymmetric with the onshore half wavelengths smaller than the offshore ones. Finally, ripple geometry and migration triggered by regular waves were compared with those generated by random waves with comparable flow orbital amplitude showing a good agreement.
机译：本文报道了波浪水槽实验活动，旨在研究由于规则波浪和随机波浪引起的倾斜沙床上小规模床形的出现，生长和迁移。使用Vectrino Profiler和结构化光方法在两个位置进行速度和形态动力学测量，一个位于水平床上方，另一个位于倾斜海滩上方。通过对速度测量值进行相位平均来计算速度。分析了多个速度剖面，确定了所有分析水柱的从海底向上延伸几厘米的海上稳定水流。通过结构光方法测量波纹几何形状，并将其与几种模型所预测的波纹形状进行比较，以阐明倾斜海滩对形状和不对称性的影响。沿着倾斜的海滩，涟漪表现出强烈的不对称性，在岸半波长小于在岸半波长。最后，将由规则波触发的波纹几何形状和迁移与由具有可比流动轨道振幅的随机波产生的波纹几何形状和迁移进行了比较，显示出良好的一致性。

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