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Evaluation of nearshore wave models in steep reef environments

机译：陡礁环境中的近岸波浪模型评估

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摘要

To provide coastal engineers and scientists with a quantitative evaluation of nearshore numerical wave models in reef environments, we review and compare three commonly used models with detailed laboratory observations. These models are the following: (1) SWASH (Simulating WAves till SHore) (Zijlema et al. 2011), a phase-resolving nonlinear shallow-water wave model with added nonhydrostatic terms; (2) SWAN (Simulating WAve Nearshore) (Booij et al. 1999), a phase-averaged spectral wave model; and (3) XBeach (Roelvink et al. 2009), a coupled phase-averaged spectral wave model (applied to modeling sea-swell waves) and a nonlinear shallow-water model (applied to modeling infragravity waves). A quantitative assessment was made of each model's ability to predict sea-swell (SS) wave height, infragravity (IG) wave height, wave spectra, and wave setup ((η)) at five locations across the laboratory fringing reef profile of Demirbilek et al. (2007). Simulations were performed with the "recommended" empirical coefficients as documented for each model, and then the key wave-breaking parameter for each model (α in SWASH and γ in both SWAN and XBeach) was optimized to most accurately reproduce the observations. SWASH, SWAN, and XBeach were found to be capable of predicting SS wave height variations across the steep fringing reef profile with reasonable accuracy using the default coefficients. Nevertheless, tuning of the key wave-breaking parameter improved the accuracy of each model's predictions. SWASH and XBeach were also able to predict IG wave height and spectral transformation. Although SWAN was capable of modeling the SS wave height, in its current form, it was not capable of modeling the spectral transformation into lower frequencies, as evident in the underprediction of the low-frequency waves.
机译：为了向沿海工程师和科学家提供对礁石环境中近岸数值波浪模型的定量评估，我们回顾并比较了三种常用的模型和详细的实验室观测结果。这些模型如下：（1）SWASH（模拟波浪直到SHore）（Zijlema等，2011），一个具有非静水力项的相分辨非线性浅水波模型； （2）SWAN（近岸模拟波浪）（Booij等人，1999年），一种相位平均频谱波模型； （3）XBeach（Roelvink et al。2009），耦合的相位平均频谱波模型（适用于海浪波动模型）和非线性浅水模型（适用于非重力波模型）。对每个模型在Demirbilek等人在实验室边缘礁分布上的五个位置预测海浪（SS）波高，次重力（IG）波高，波谱和波设置（（η））的能力进行了定量评估。等（2007）。使用每个模型记录的“推荐”经验系数进行仿真，然后优化每个模型的关键破波参数（SWASH中的α和SWAN和XBeach中的γ），以最准确地重现观察结果。发现SWASH，SWAN和XBeach能够使用默认系数以合理的精度预测整个陡峭礁石剖面上的SS波高度变化。但是，关键破波参数的调整提高了每个模型预测的准确性。 SWASH和XBeach也能够预测IG波的高度和光谱变换。尽管SWAN能够以当前形式对SS波高度进行建模，但无法对频谱转换为低频进行建模，这在低频波的低估中很明显。

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  • 来源
    《Ocean Dynamics》 |2014年第6期|847-862|共16页
  • 作者

    Mark Buckley; Ryan Lowe; Jeff Hansen;

  • 作者单位

    School of Earth and Environment, University of Western Australia, Crawley, WA 6009, Australia,The Oceans Institute, University of Western Australia, Crawley, WA 6009, Australia;

    School of Earth and Environment, University of Western Australia, Crawley, WA 6009, Australia,The Oceans Institute, University of Western Australia, Crawley, WA 6009, Australia;

    School of Earth and Environment, University of Western Australia, Crawley, WA 6009, Australia,The Oceans Institute, University of Western Australia, Crawley, WA 6009, Australia;

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  • 正文语种 eng
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  • 关键词

    Wave-breaking; Coral reefs; Breaking parameter; Nonlinear waves; Steep slope; Wave model; Wave dissipation;

    机译：破浪;珊瑚礁;破坏参数;非线性波;陡坡;波浪模型消波;

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