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首页> 外文期刊>Ocean Dynamics >Preliminary hydrodynamic results of a field experiment on a barred beach, Truc Vert beach on October 2001
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Preliminary hydrodynamic results of a field experiment on a barred beach, Truc Vert beach on October 2001

机译：2001年10月在禁止的海滩，Truc Vert海滩上进行的野外实验的初步水动力结果

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摘要

A field experiment conducted on a sandy barred beach, situated on the southern part of the French Atlantic coastline, allowed us to investigate the impact of the intertidal bar on the wave-energy dissipation on the beach face in presence of a high-energy long-incoming swell (significant wave height of about 1.7 to 3.0 m in 56 m water depth and significant wave period about 12 s). Data were collected along three parallel cross-shore transects deployed along an intertidal ridge and runnel system. Wave heights in the inner surf zone are depth-limited, consistent with previous works, and the wave-energy dissipation in the inner surf zone appears to be relatively independent of the offshore energy level. On the other hand, the presence of the bar seems to scatter the data. In models of surf-zone hydrodynamics, wave-energy dissipation is often parameterized in terms of γ, the ratio of the sea-swell significant wave height to the local mean water depth. The observed values of γ are not constant along a cross-shore transect, and increase onshore. Furthermore, the observed γ values observed onshore the intertidal bar are higher than those observed outside the influence of the intertidal bar, and this cannot be fully explained by the different local beach slope.
机译：在法国大西洋沿岸南部的一片沙滩上进行的野外实验，使我们能够在高能长波存在的情况下，研究潮间带对海滩面波能量消散的影响。涌浪（在56 m的水深中大约1.7至3.0 m的显着波高，大约12 s的显着波周期）。沿着沿潮间带和水道系统部署的三个平行的跨海横断面收集数据。内浪带的波浪高度是受深度限制的，这与以前的工作是一致的，并且内浪带的波浪能量耗散似乎相对独立于海上能级。另一方面，条形的存在似乎分散了数据。在海浪区水动力模型中，波浪能量耗散通常以γ（海浪有效波浪高度与局部平均水深之比）的形式进行参数化。沿跨岸断面的γ观测值不是恒定的，而在陆上则增加。此外，在潮间带岸上观测到的γ值高于在潮间带影响之外观测到的γ值，这不能通过不同的局部海滩坡度来完全解释。

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  • 来源
    《Ocean Dynamics》 |2004年第4期|p. 408-414|共7页
  • 作者

    Nadia Senechal; Helene Dupuis; Philippe Bonneton;

  • 作者单位

    Department of Geology and Oceanography, University of Bordeaux I, Avenue des Facultés, 33405 Talence, cedex-France;

    Department of Geology and Oceanography, University of Bordeaux I, Avenue des Facultés, 33405 Talence, cedex-France;

    Department of Geology and Oceanography, University of Bordeaux I, Avenue des Facultés, 33405 Talence, cedex-France;

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  • 原文格式 PDF
  • 正文语种 eng
  • 中图分类 地球物理学;
  • 关键词

    Sandy beach; Wave dissipation;

    机译：沙滩;波耗;

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