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Comprehensive wave climate analysis of the Uruguayan coast

机译：乌拉圭海岸的综合波浪气候分析

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摘要

A detailed analysis of how the wave climate gradually varies from the Atlantic coast to the Rio de la Plata (RDP) estuary coast of Uruguay is undertaken, exploiting a recently developed high-resolution wave hindcast. As a better knowledge and understanding of the wave climate along the coast is a valuable tool for coastal scientist and managers for analyzing and interpreting its dynamics, a comprehensive approach is taken in this work, exploring not only the behavior of integral wave parameters but also average wave spectra and wave systems obtained from spectra partitioning. Moreover, as the focus is made on coastal areas, the magnitude and direction of the wave energy flux are analyzed as well. It is found that the analysis of the wave climate sustains the division of the Uruguayan coast in three main regions, namely, Atlantic, Outer RDP, and Intermediate and Inner RDP. In the Atlantic coast, two swell systems and a wind sea system are identified, and spatial changes in the wave climate are driven mainly by changes on coastal orientation, where La Paloma was identified as a breaking point; in the RDP, swell systems strongly refracts and dissipates, resulting in a wave climate characterized by one to none swell systems and a wind sea system, with bathymetry and geometry of the estuary playing a major role in the spatial changes of the wave climate. The analysis allowed not only to identify several characteristics of each of the regions but also to better understand how different wave systems (sea and swells) explain these characteristics in the different regions.
机译：详细分析了波浪气候如何从大西洋海岸逐渐变化到乌拉圭的里约热内卢（RDP）河口海岸，利用最近开发的高分辨率波形Hindcast。作为对海岸沿海的波浪气候的更好的知识和理解是沿海科学家和管理人员的有价值的工具，用于分析和解释其动态，在这项工作中采取了全面的方法，不仅探索了积分波参数的行为，而且探索平均值从光谱划分获得的波浪和波系统。此外，由于对沿海地区进行了重点，因此还分析了波能量通量的大小和方向。结果发现，波浪气候的分析维持乌拉圭海岸的三个主要地区，即大西洋，外部RDP和中间RDP。在大西洋海岸，鉴定了两个膨胀系统和风海系统，波浪气候的空间变化主要受到沿海方向的变化，其中La Paloma被识别为破裂点;在RDP中，膨胀系统强烈折射和消散，导致波浪气候，其特征在于一个到没有膨胀系统和风海系统，河口的沐浴和几何形状在波浪气候的空间变化中发挥着重要作用。分析不仅识别了每个地区的几个特征，还允许更好地了解不同的波系统（海和膨胀）如何解释不同地区的这些特征。

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