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Variability of wave parameters and H_(max)/H_s relationship under storm conditions offshore the Portuguese continental coast

机译：葡萄牙大陆海岸近海风暴条件下的波参数变化和H_（max）/ H_s关系

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摘要

The relevance of long-term wave storm characterization based on in-situ measurements extends from marine ecosystems management to the design of ocean engineering structures. We analyze wave storms recorded over almost three decades (1988-2015) in three points offshore the Portuguese continental coast located between 83 and 97 m water depth. We provide Probability Distribution Functions for mean wave direction (theta(m)), directional wave spreading (sigma(theta)), significant wave height (H-s), maximum wave height (H-max) mean wave period (T-z) and, H-max/H-s relationship based on four storm datasets. In the highly energetic Portuguese west coast (Leixoes and Sines), H-max and H-max/H-s ranged between 5.5 and 17.3 m and 1.16 to 2.47, respectively. We conclude that a GEV distribution can represent H-max and H-max/H-s variability at the three analyzed locations. Despite the differences in the dataset lengths and the differences in the range and variability of theta(m), sigma(theta), T-z, H-s, and H-max we found that the range and variability of H-max/H-s are very similar for the four storm datasets. For the analyzed period, sigma(theta) ranged between 8 and 52 degrees and 10 to 59 degrees in the west and south coast (Faro Atlantic and Faro Levante storms), respectively, and its variability can be described by a log-logistic distribution.
机译：基于原位测量的长期风暴潮表征的相关性已从海洋生态系统管理延伸到海洋工程结构设计。我们分析了近三十年来（1988-2015年）记录在葡萄牙大陆沿岸水深在83至97 m之间的三个地点的海浪。我们提供了平均波方向（theta（m）），方向波扩展（sigma（theta）），有效波高（Hs），最大波高（H-max）平均波周期（Tz）和H的概率分布函数-max / Hs关系基于四个风暴数据集。在高度活跃的葡萄牙西海岸（Leixoes和Sines），H-max和H-max / H-s分别在5.5至17.3 m和1.16至2.47之间。我们得出结论，GEV分布可以代表三个分析位置的H-max和H-max / H-s变异性。尽管数据集长度不同并且theta（m），sigma（theta），Tz，Hs和H-max的范围和变异性也不同，但我们发现H-max / Hs的范围和变异性非常相似对于四个风暴数据集。在所分析的时期内，西海岸和南海岸（法罗大西洋和法鲁·莱万特风暴）的西格玛θ分别在8至52度和10至59度之间，其变异性可以通过对数逻辑分布来描述。

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