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A theoretical solution to dispersion coefficients in wave field

机译：波场中色散系数的理论解

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Dispersion of mass concentration due to ocean waves has characteristics different from that induced by river flows. Theoretical formulae of first and second order dispersion coefficients, including both mean and oscillating parts, are derived by successive approximation for flow field composed of tidal current, Stokes drift and first order wave orbital velocity, in which the second order dispersion coefficient is first introduced. The significant contribution of wave orbital velocity is investigated. It is found that the source of this contribution is the interaction between the velocity components and the concentration deviations from its depth-mean value. The validation of the time-mean coefficient is made against the related numerical and experimental results. The effects of the second order dispersion coefficient and the dispersion coefficient oscillation on concentration transport are discussed.
机译：海浪引起的质量浓度分散具有与河流引起的质量分散不同的特征。通过对由潮流，斯托克斯漂移和一阶波轨道速度组成的流场进行逐次逼近，推导出一阶和二阶频散系数的理论公式，包括均值和振荡部分，其中首先引入了二阶频散系数。研究了波轨道速度的重要贡献。已经发现，这种贡献的来源是速度分量与浓度偏离其深度均值的相互作用。根据相关的数值和实验结果验证了时间平均系数。讨论了二阶色散系数和色散系数振荡对浓度输运的影响。

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