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Coasts, reefs and atolls

机译：海岸，礁石和环礁

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Within the two major theories of the generation of rhythmic shoreline features, the earlier one relates to edge waves, whereas the one developed later perceives shoreline rhythmic forms as effects of self-organized shoreline behavior. This study focused on identification of infragravity waves (edge waves) and periodic components of shoreline configuration and searched for their potential relationships in the mildly sloping, sandy south Baltic coast. The objective was not to suggest which theory better describes shoreline rhythmic features but was chosen for an empirical assessment of possible links between the generation of rhythmic morphological beach forms and specific infra-gravity waves motion at a dissipative shore. The investigatedrnarea features a gently sloping seabed with several bars inducing multiple breakers, which can be classified as a dissipative beach. Field measurements were taken during two periods lasting several months each. Long records of water table oscillations, nearshore currents, and measurements of shoreline configurations were analyzed using various signal processing techniques, incorporating traditional spectral analysis and the modern statistical techniques of singular spectrum analysis and discrete wavelet transform. The measurements revealed two clearly visible infragravity components with periods T_k = 30-40 seconds and T_k = 100-120 seconds at a dissipative south Baltic beach with multiple bars. They were detected by all three methods employed in the study. Additionally, less pronounced components were identified with periods T_k = 180 seconds and T_k = 10-12 seconds. The analysis of variability of the shoreline shape found periodic components with wavelengths ranging between several and several hundred meters and more. Results of this study also suggest that there are links between infragravity waves and rhythmic shoreline forms in a dissipative shore with multiple bars.
机译：在产生有节奏的海岸线特征的两种主要理论中，较早的一种与边波有关，而后来发展的一种认为海岸线的节奏形式是自组织海岸线行为的影响。这项研究的重点是确定超重力波（边缘波）和海岸线构造的周期性分量，并寻找它们在波罗的海南部轻度倾斜的沙质海岸中的潜在关系。目的不是要建议哪种理论能更好地描述海岸线的节奏特征，而是被选择用于对有节奏的形态海滩形式的产生与耗散海岸的特定重力波运动之间可能联系的经验评估。被调查者的特征是海床缓缓倾斜，并带有几根引起多个破碎器的横杆，这些破碎器可归类为耗散性海滩。实地测量是在两个阶段进行的，每个阶段持续几个月。使用各种信号处理技术，结合了传统的频谱分析以及奇异频谱分析和离散小波变换的现代统计技术，分析了地下水位振荡，近岸海流和海岸线配置测量的长期记录。测量结果显示，在波罗的海南部耗散的多条海滩上，两个清晰可见的次重力分量的周期T_k = 30-40秒，T_k = 100-120秒。通过研究中使用的所有三种方法对它们进行了检测。另外，识别出不太明显的分量，其周期为T_k = 180秒和T_k = 10-12秒。海岸线形状的可变性分析发现，周期分量的波长范围在几百米到几百米甚至更多之间。这项研究的结果还表明，在散布有多根钢筋的海岸上，重力波和有节奏的海岸线形式之间存在联系。

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