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Runup of the surface waves of various shapes on a sloping beach

机译:在倾斜的海滩上各种形状的表面波的运行

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摘要

In the long-wave approximation, we perform the numerical analysis of the plane problem of runup of waves of various shapes on a sloping beach. We study transformations of the shape of waves flooding the beach and in the course of their subsequent rundown. The dependence of maximum elevations and lowerings of the sea level on the parameters of the waves approaching the beach, the depth of the shelf, and the slope of the bottom are investigated. It is shown that the shape of waves affects the amplitude characteristics of oscillations of the coastline. The heights of the vertical runup of waves incident on a sloping beach can be several times higher than the amplitude of waves entering the shelf zone.
机译:在长波逼近中,我们对倾斜海滩上各种形状的波浪的平面问题进行了平面分析。我们研究了波浪泛滥成滩并在随后的破坏过程中的变化。研究了海平面的最大升高和降低对接近海滩的海浪参数,架子深度和底部坡度的依赖性。结果表明,波浪的形状会影响海岸线振荡的振幅特性。入射在倾斜海滩上的海浪的垂直上升高度可能比进入陆架区的海浪振幅高几倍。

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