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Extreme Waves in Crossing Sea States

机译:极端波穿越海洋

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摘要

The evolution of crossing sea states and the emergence of rogue waves in such systems are studied via numerical simulations performed using a higher order spectral (HOS) method to solve the free surface Euler equations with a flat bottom. Two classes of crossing sea states are analyzed: one using directional spectra from the Draupner wave crossing at different angles, another considering a Draupner-like spectra crossed with a narrowband JONSWAP state to model spectral growth between wind sea and swell. These two classes of crossing sea states are constructed using the spectral output of a WAVEWATCH III hindcast on the Draupner rogue wave event. We measure ensemble statistical moments as functions of time, finding that although the crossing angle influences the statistical evolution to some degree, there are no significant third-order effects present. Additionally, we pay particular attention to the mean sea level measured beneath extreme crest heights, the elevation of which (set up or set down) is shown to be related to the spectral content in the low wavenumber region of the corresponding spectrum.
机译:跨越海洋国家和的进化在这样的系统出现超级巨浪通过数值模拟研究了使用执行一个高阶谱(HOS)方法来解决自由表面用平底欧拉方程。分析了两类穿越海洋国家:一个使用定向Draupner光谱从不同的角度,另一个波穿越考虑Draupner-like光谱交叉一个窄带JONSWAP谱状态模型风海之间增长和膨胀。类构造跨越海洋国家使用的光谱输出WAVEWATCH三世追算Draupner流氓波事件。测量系综统计时刻的功能的时候,发现尽管交叉角影响统计进化一些学位,没有明显的三阶影响。注意下面的平均海平面测量极端的波峰高度,它的海拔(建立或放下)与显示在低波数谱内容区域相应的频谱。

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