FROM 31,000FT, Antarctica emerges ambiguously on the horizon. At first, one questions whether it is a cloudbank. But soon the distinct and jagged profile of mountains puts paid to any questions. The Boeing 747-400 speeding toward Cape Adare is a far cry from the wooden vessels that crept through the frigid waters to first sight and name the peninsula in 1841. But, while the craft may have changed, the landscape that looms ahead has retained its unchanged majesty.
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