Spectral Model for Wave Transformation and Breaking over Irregular Bathymetry

Arun Chawla; H. Tuba Ozkan-Haller; James T. Kirby

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Spectral Model for Wave Transformation and Breaking over Irregular Bathymetry

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A numerical model is presented that predicts the evolution of a directional spectral sea state over a varying bathymetry using superposition of results of a parabolic monochromatic wave model run for each initial frequency-direction component. The model predicts dissipation due to wave breaking using a statistical breaking model and has been tested with existing data for unidirectional random waves breaking over a plane beach. Experiments were also conducted for a series of random directional waves breaking over a circular shoal to test the model in a two-dimensional wave field. The model performs well in both cases, although directional effects are not included in the breaking dissipation formulation.

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《Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering》 |1998年第4期|189-198|共10页
作者
Arun Chawla; H. Tuba Ozkan-Haller; James T. Kirby;
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作者单位

Ctr. for Appl. Coast. Res., Dept. of Civ. and Envir. Engrg., Univ. of Delaware, Newark, DE 19716;

Ctr. for Appl. Coast. Res., Dept of Civ. and Envir. Engrg., Univ. of Delaware, Newark, DE;

Ctr. for Appl. Coast. Res., Dept. of Civ. and Envir. Engrg., Univ. of Delaware, Newark. DE;

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Spectral Model for Wave Transformation and Breaking over Irregular Bathymetry

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