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Advances in the study of moving sediments and evolving seabeds

机译:移动沉积物和演化海床的研究进展

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摘要

Sands and mud are continually being transported around the world's coastal seas due to the action of tides, wind and waves. The transport of these sediments modifies the boundary between the land and the sea, changing and reshaping its form. Sometimes the nearshore bathymetry evolves slowly over long time periods, at other times more rapidly due to natural episodic events or the introduction of manmade structures at the shoreline. For over half a century we have been trying to understand the physics of sediment transport processes and formulate predictive models. Although significant progress has been made, our capability to forecast the future behaviour of the coastal zone from basic principles is still relatively poor. However, innovative acoustic techniques for studying the fundamentals of sediment movement experimentally are now providing new insights, and it is expected that such observations, coupled with developing theoretical works, will allow us to take further steps towards the goal of predicting the evolution of coastlines and coastal bathymetry. This paper presents an overview of our existing predictive capabilities, primarily in the field of non-cohesive sediment transport, and highlights how new acoustic techniques are enabling our modelling efforts to achieve greater sophistication and accuracy. The paper is aimed at coastal scientists and managers seeking to understand how detailed physical studies can contribute to the improvement of coastal area models and, hence, inform coastal zone management strategies.
机译:由于潮汐,风和浪的作用,沙尘不断在世界沿海海域运输。这些沉积物的运输改变了陆地和海洋之间的边界,改变并重塑了其形态。有时,近岸测深法会在很长一段时间内缓慢发展,而在其他时候则由于自然事件或在海岸线引入人造结构而更快地发展。半个多世纪以来,我们一直在试图了解沉积物输送过程的物理原理,并建立预测模型。尽管已经取得了重大进展,但我们根据基本原则预测沿海地区未来行为的能力仍然相对较差。但是,用于实验研究沉积物运动基本原理的创新声学技术现在提供了新的见识,并且预计这些观察结果与不断发展的理论工作将使我们能够进一步迈向预测海岸线演变的目标。沿海测深。本文概述了我们现有的预测能力,主要是在非粘性沉积物传输领域,并着重介绍了新的声学技术如何使我们的建模工作实现更高的复杂性和准确性。本文针对寻求了解详细的物理研究如何有助于改进沿海地区模型,从而为沿海地区管理策略提供帮助的沿海科学家和管理人员。

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