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Improvements in or relating to means for imparting durable pleats, creases or other predetermined deformations in slivers yarns or fabrics consisting of or containing wool or other keratinous fibres
Improvements in or relating to means for imparting durable pleats, creases or other predetermined deformations in slivers yarns or fabrics consisting of or containing wool or other keratinous fibres
Durable creases, pleats or other predetermined deformations are set in wool or other keratinous fibres in the form of slivers, yarn or woven, knitted or felted fabrics either in the piece or in the form of made up garments by treating the fibrous materials with a solution containing (1) a reducing compound, (2) a hydrogen-band breakdown reagent, i.e. urea, guanidine, a phenol or formic acid, or an anionic detergent and (3) a resin precondensate together with an accelerator which facilitates condensation of the precondensate and effecting the final setting part of the process by the application of moist heat with or without mechanical pressure. The reducing compound (1) may be an alkali metal sulphite, bi sulphite, metabisulphite, or hypophosphite, thio glycollic acid or its ammonium or sodium salts, sodium hydrosulphite or one of its derivatives or formamidine sulphuric acid or a soluble salt thereof. Suitable anionic detergents (2) are the sodium, ammonium, magnesium and calcium salts of an alkyl sulphuric, alkyl-sulphonic or alkyl arylsulphonic acid in which alkyl denotes a straight or branched hydrocarbon chain, preferably dodecyl, and aryl denotes a cyclic hydrocarbon ring, preferably benzene, and alkalimetal salts of alkyl carboxylic acids. The resin precondensate (3) may be a melamine-formaldehyde resin precondensate suitable accelerators for which are diammonium phosphate, magnesium chloride and zinc nitrate. In the production of curled slivers or yarns the treating solution may be added to the rinsing water in the last bowl of the washing train, excess liquid removed and the damp material curled or otherwise deformed and heated in a steam autoclave at 120 DEG -125 DEG C. for 5-30 minutes. Alternatively after removal of excess liquid the material may be dried at a temperature not exceeding 50 DEG C. and subsequently curled or otherwise deformed after uniformly wetting and then heated. In the production of durable creases or pleats fabrics may be impregnated with the treating solution, dried at a temperature not exceeding 50 DEG C., made into garmets, e.g. trousers or skirts, arranged in creases or pleats, moistened and then pressed by means of a hand iron or Hoffman press. Alternatively the impregnation with the treating solution may be affected after making the fabric into garments. In the production of felt caps the pre-formed cap bodies made from felt may be impregnated with the solution, hydroextracted, pulled into shape on a former and heatset on the gas-heated metal former.
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机译：通过用溶液处理纤维材料，以条，纱或机织，针织或毡制织物形式制成的羊毛或其他角蛋白纤维，以片状或成衣形式，形成持久的折痕，褶皱或其他预定变形包含（1）还原性化合物，（2）氢带分解试剂（即尿素，胍，苯酚或甲酸）或阴离子去污剂;以及（3）树脂预缩合物和促进剂，可促进预缩合物的缩合并且通过在有或没有机械压力的情况下施加湿热来实现该过程的最终设定部分。还原性化合物（1）可以是碱金属亚硫酸盐，亚硫酸氢盐，偏亚硫酸氢盐或次磷酸盐，硫代乙醇酸或其铵盐或钠盐，亚硫酸氢钠或其衍生物之一或甲am硫酸或其可溶性盐。合适的阴离子去污剂（2）是烷基硫酸，烷基磺酸或烷基芳基磺酸的钠，铵，镁和钙盐，其中烷基表示直链或支链的烃链，优选十二烷基，而芳基表示环状烃环，优选苯和烷基羧酸的碱金属盐。树脂预缩合物（3）可以是适合的三聚氰胺-甲醛树脂预缩合物的促进剂，其为磷酸二铵，氯化镁和硝酸锌。在生产卷曲的条子或纱线时，可将处理溶液加到洗涤机的最后一碗中的漂洗水中，除去多余的液体，并使潮湿的材料卷曲或变形，并在120℃-125℃的蒸汽高压釜中加热。 C. 5-30分钟。或者，在除去过量的液体之后，可以在不超过50℃的温度下干燥该材料，然后在均匀润湿并随后加热之后卷曲或以其他方式变形。在生产耐久的折痕或褶皱时，织物可以用处理溶液浸渍，在不超过50℃的温度下干燥，制成例如加仑布的衣服。折成褶皱或褶皱的裤子或裙子，然后通过手熨斗或霍夫曼压机压紧。或者，在将织物制成衣服后，可以影响处理液的浸渍。在毡帽的生产中，可以将由毡制成的预成型帽体浸渍在溶液中，进行水萃取，在成形器上拉成形状并在气体加热的金属成形器上热定形。
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