SYNOPTIC PREDICTIVE MORPHODYNAMIC MODEL FOR BEACH MANAGEMENT: TRAFALGAR (SPAIN)

机译：用于海滩管理的概要预测动力学模型：特拉法加（西班牙）

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The intertidal beach morphology at Trafalgar beach (Spain) is analyzed at 3 distinct alongshore sectors, and classified. Five different morphological states are found that are related with the presence or absence of beach cusps and a berm. These morphologies are, in some cases, well correlated with the daily offshore incident wave climate (described by the daily maximum H_s and corresponding period), particularly, for the moderate to high energy wave conditions. Short-protruding beach cusps appear under short period waves, whereas when the wave periods are larger the morphology tends to change to large beach cusps. This transition only occurs if the forcing is maintained constant for a certain duration, which depends itself on the wave energy. It is concluded that it is not possible to generally predict the intertidal morphology based only on the wave forcing; history effects can not be ignored.

机译：在三个不同的沿海地区对特拉法加海滩（西班牙）的潮间带海滩形态进行了分析，并进行了分类。发现了五种不同的形态状态，它们与海滩尖头和堤岸的存在与否有关。在某些情况下，这些形态与日常的近海入射波气候（由每日的最大H_s和相应的周期来描述）密切相关，尤其是在中到高能波情况下。在短周期波浪作用下出现短突的海滩风口，而当波浪周期较大时，形态趋于变为大的海滩风口。仅当强制力在一定期间内保持恒定时才会发生这种转变，这取决于波能。得出的结论是，一般不可能仅根据波浪强迫来预测潮间带形态。历史的影响不容忽视。

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来源
《International Conference on Coastal Engineering 2006(ICCE 2006); 20060903-08; San Diego,CA(US)》|2006年|P.3976-3986|共11页
会议地点 San DiegoCA(US)
作者
Miguel Ortega-Sanchez; Sandra Fachin; Francisco Sancho; Francisco J. de los Santos; Miguel A. Losada;
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作者单位

Grupo de Puertos y Costas, CEAMA - University of Granada, Avda. del Mediterraneo, s, Granada, 18006, Spain;

Nucleo de Estuarios e Zonas Costeiras, Laboratorio Nacional de Engenharia Civil, Avda. Brasil 101, Lisboa, 1700-066, Portugal;

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正文语种 eng
中图分类海洋工程;
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SYNOPTIC PREDICTIVE MORPHODYNAMIC MODEL FOR BEACH MANAGEMENT: TRAFALGAR (SPAIN)

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