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A novel tool and training methodology for improving finger strength in rock climbers

机译：一种新型工具及培训方法，用于提高攀岩机中的手指强度

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Recently a novel finger strength training tool for rock climbers, the Rock Prodigy Training Center (RPTC) and its associated training protocol, the Rock Prodigy Method (RPM) were developed. The RPTC incorporates several innovations that improve upon similar, traditional devices to provide a sport-specific, repeatable method for improving finger strength in climbers, and to improve overall climbing performance. After several months of use by climbers around the world, the efficacies of these tools were evaluated by comparing pre-and post-training climbing performance. Training and performance data are presented from 118 athletes which clearly demonstrate that the RPTC and RPM are highly effective at increasing sport-specific finger strength. Finger strength improved an average of 21.5% after only 4 weeks of training, and overall climbing ability improved an average of 2.5 Yosemite Decimal System letter grades after using these training tools.
机译：最近，开发了一种新型手指强度训练工具，摇滚神童训练中心（RPTC）及其相关培训协议，摇滚神童（RPM）开发。 RPTC采用了几种改善类似传统设备的创新，以提供一种用于提高登山者手指强度的运动特异性，可重复的方法，并提高整体攀爬性能。在全球登山者使用几个月后，通过比较预先培训的攀爬性能来评估这些工具的效果。培训和绩效数据提交了118名运动员，该运动员清楚地证明RPTC和RPM在增加运动特异性手指强度方面非常有效。手指强度平均提高21.5％，只有4周的培训，总体攀爬能力在使用这些训练工具后平均增长2.5个优胜美地型十进制系统字母等级。

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