[目的]广泛开发具有保健功能的天然染料，选用核桃青皮对棉织物进行染色。[方法]通过紫外扫描图谱研究了核桃青皮染液的热稳定性，响应面法优化不同染液浓度、碱（碳酸氢钠）浓度、时间、温度下棉织物的染色工艺，以未染色棉织物为对照，总色差为指标，最后应用扫描电镜图谱分析棉织物染色前后形貌变化。[结果]核桃青皮染液在100℃内稳定性良好；模型优化的条件为染液浓度70 mg／mL，碱浓度3．91％，时间102 min，温度100℃，此条件下，总色差为35．292，各因素中碱浓度是影响总色差值的最显著因素，染液浓度和碱浓度交互作用极显著（P＜0．01）；扫描电镜图显示棉织物染色前后形貌未发生改变；由于媒染剂的络合作用，预媒染染色色牢度比直接染色普遍高1～2级，色牢度均达4级。[结论]响应面法可有效优化核桃青皮染液的棉织物染色工艺。%Objective] To widely develop natural dyes with health care function and select pigments of walnut green husks as dyeing for cotton fabric.[ Method] Based on preliminary experiments, thermal stability of dye solution concentration from walnut green husk was analyzed by ultraviolet scanning spectrum, dyeing process of cotton fabric at different test conditions of dyeing solution, alkali ( NaHCO3 ) concentration, temperature, and time was further optimized on the basis of unstained cotton fabric as the control and the total color difference as total index by response surface methodology (RSM).Finally, the morphology difference of unstained and stained cotton fabric was compared by SEM ima-ges.[ Result] Dye concentration of walnut green husk had good thermal stability at 100 ℃;model optimum dyeing conditions were as follows:dyeing solution concentration was 70 mg/mL, NaHCO3 concentration was 3.91%, time was 102 min, temperature was 100 ℃.Under the a-bove conditions,△E value was 35.292.Alkali concentration was the most significant factor influencing △E value, while dyeing solution con-centration and alkali concentration had extremely significant (P<0.01)interaction on△E value;SEM images indicated there is no change in morphology of stained cotton fabric;because of complexing effect of mordant, the color fastness of cotton fabric by mordant dyeing is generally 1 to 2 level higher than that by direct dyeing.The fastness of fabric all reached grade 4.[ Conclusion] Response surface methodology can ef-fectively optimize the cotton fabric dyeing process of pigments from walnut green husks.
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