Just before Christmas, five cruise ships J docked at the capital of this tiny island and disgorged their passengers. As they strolled along the pretty seafront, the tourists found themselves rubbing shoulders with workers rebuilding a wrecked fire station, and staring at historic churches which still gape roofless at the tropical sky. Four months after Hurricane Ivan left its trail of mayhem, Grenada is still struggling to get back on its feet. Although-like many of its neighbours-it has sold itself to western trippers as an idyllic, problem-free retreat, it cannot now hide its scars. A similar dilemma, in far more acute form, will soon be faced by communities around the Indian Ocean.
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