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Meat consumption and capitalist development: The meatification of food provision and practice in Vietnam

机译：肉类消费与资本主义发展：越南粮食供应和实践的肉化

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The global consumption of meat and animal products has increased dramatically in recent decades, particularly due to rising consumption in so-called developing countries. This increase has popularly been explained as part of a "nutrition transition" driven by rising income, urbanisation and foreign culinary influences. From the supply side, the increase has been approached as part of a "livestock revolution", or alternatively as the outcome of capitalist agricultural processes. This paper argues, however, that these explanations have given insufficient attention to how and why consumption of meat changes. The paper analyses the case of Vietnam, where meat consumption has increased very rapidly since the initiation of market reforms in 1986. In understanding how meat consumption and development have co-evolved, the paper argues that consumption should be approached at the intersection between systems of provision and everyday practices. With this backdrop - and partly combining, partly going beyond standard explanations - the paper locates four main contributing factors towards increasing meat consumption in Vietnam: (1) changes in systems of provision for meat, (2) the meat intensification of traditional meals and the import of meat-intensive eating practices from abroad, (3) the increasing prevalence of eating out; and (4) the positive social connotations attached to meat as a symbol of development and progress. The paper goes on to argue that the dramatic meatification of food provision and practice in Vietnam should be understood as the result of capitalist development processes and their associated economic and social changes, rather than the 'natural' and inevitable outcome of development.
机译：近几十年来，全球肉类和动物产品消费量急剧增加，特别是由于所谓的发展中国家的消费量增长。人们普遍将这一增长解释为收入增加，城市化和外国烹饪影响所推动的“营养转变”的一部分。从供给方面看，增加是作为“畜牧业革命”的一部分，或者作为资本主义农业过程的结果。然而，本文认为，这些解释并未充分关注肉类消费的方式和原因的变化。本文分析了越南的情况，自1986年市场改革以来，肉类消费量增长非常快。在了解肉类消费与发展如何共同发展的过程中，本文认为，应在肉类消费体系之间的交汇处接近消费。供应和日常实践。在这种背景下（部分结合，部分超出了标准的解释），本文找到了导致越南肉类消费增加的四个主要因素：（1）肉类供给系统的变化；（2）传统餐食的肉类强化和从国外进口肉类密集的饮食习惯，（3）外出就餐的流行率增加； （4）肉类作为发展和进步的象征所具有的积极的社会内涵。该论文继续指出，越南食品供应和实践的戏剧性肉化应被理解为资本主义发展过程及其相关的经济和社会变化的结果，而不是发展的“自然”和必然结果。

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