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Spectral Evolution of Nearshore Wave Energy during a Sea-Breeze Cycle

机译：海风循环中近岸波能的频谱演化

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摘要

From in situ measurements taken over several sea-breeze cycles off a beach in southwest (SW) Australia, the evolution of the one-dimensional spectrum of wave energy is observed to have a distinctive spectral shape. During the land-breeze phase of the cycle, lower rates of dissipation of wave energy are seen at high frequencies compared to midrange frequencies above the remnant wind-sea peak. A simulation of waves was performed using the Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN) model and produced the same spectral evolution, by generating longshore modes, as seen in the observations. The performance of whitecapping schemes available in SWAN was assessed, and the Alves-Banner scheme was found to best simulate the observed growth and decay of the wave spectra. During the onshore phase of the sea-breeze cycle, local wave growth is duration limited, and during the offshore land-breeze phase, wave growth is fetch limited. From an examination of the modeled two-dimensional spectra it is found that quadruplet interactions play a key role in spreading high-frequency wave energy in frequency and direction space.
机译：通过在澳大利亚西南（SW）的一个海滩上进行的多个海风循环的现场测量，观察到波能的一维光谱的演化具有独特的光谱形状。在循环的陆风阶段，与剩余风海峰以上的中频相比，高频处的波能耗散率更低。如近观所见，使用近海模拟波（SWAN）模型进行了波模拟，并通过生成长岸模式产生了相同的光谱演化。评估了SWAN中可用的白盖方案的性能，发现Alves-Banner方案可以最好地模拟观察到的波谱的增长和衰减。在海风周期的陆上阶段，局部海浪的生长受到持续时间的限制，而在海陆陆风的阶段中，海浪的生长受到限制。通过对建模的二维光谱的检查，发现四重相互作用在频率和方向空间中传播高频波能量方面起着关键作用。

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    《Journal of Physical Oceanography》 |2014年第12期|3195-3208|共14页
  • 作者

    Jim Gunson; Graham Symonds;

  • 作者单位

    CSIRO Marine and Atmospheric Research, and CSIRO Wealth from Oceans Flagship, Floreat, Western Australia, Australia,CSIRO Marine and Atmospheric Research, Underwood Ave., Floreat WA 6014, Australia;

    CSIRO Marine and Atmospheric Research, and CSIRO Wealth from Oceans Flagship, Floreat, Western Australia, Australia;

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