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Numerical Simulation of Wave Breaking

机译:波浪破碎的数值模拟

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The wave breaking events in a continuous spectrum of surface gravity waves are investigated numerically in 2D within a framework of the potential motion model. It is claimed that the major physical mechanism leading to wave breaking is "squeezing" of relatively short waves by the surface currents due to longer waves (the "concertina" effect), which causes the shorter waves to steepen and become unstable. It is demonstrated that locations of the breaking events are well correlated with the maximum of local current convergence, although slightly worse correlation of the locations with the local steepness of undulating surface cannot reliably exclude the latter mechanism either. It is found also that the breaking events are very rare for random surfaces with a root-mean-square (RMS) current gradient below a threshold value of about 1 s~(-1). The process of wave breaking was investigated by two numerical codes. One of them is based on approximation of continuous media with a discrete Hamiltonian system, which can be integrated in time very efficiently and accurately but is limited to single-valued profiles. The other is the Laplacian approach, which can explicitly exhibit the overturning of plunging breakers. Study of the discrete system shows that wave breaking is associated with the explosive growth of a certain spatially localized mode of the system.
机译:在潜在运动模型的框架内,以二维方式对表面重力波的连续频谱中的破波事件进行了数值研究。据称,导致波浪破裂的主要物理机制是由于较长的波浪(“ Concertina”效应)而通过表面电流“挤压”相对较短的波浪(这导致较短的波浪变陡并变得不稳定)。证明了破裂事件的位置与局部电流收敛的最大值具有良好的相关性,尽管位置与起伏表面的局部陡度之间的较差的相关性也不能可靠地排除后者的机制。还发现,对于均方根(RMS)电流梯度低于阈值约1 s〜(-1)的随机表面,破裂事件非常罕见。用两个数字代码研究了波浪破碎的过程。其中之一是基于离散哈密顿系统对连续介质的近似,该系统可以在时间上非常高效,准确地进行积分,但仅限于单值轮廓。另一种是拉普拉斯方法,该方法可以明确显示出断路器的倾覆。对离散系统的研究表明,波浪破碎与系统某些空间局部模式的爆炸性增长有关。

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