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Wave Directions in a Narrow Bay

机译：狭窄海湾中的波浪方向

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In slanting fetch conditions the direction of actively growing waves is strongly controlled by the fetch geometry. The effect was found to be pronounced in the long and narrow Gulf of Finland in the Baltic Sea, where it significantly modifies the directional wave climate. Three models with different assumptions on the directional coupling between the wave components were used to analyze the physics responsible for the directional behavior of the waves in the gulf. The directionally decoupled model produced the direction at the spectral peak correctly when the slanting fetch geometry was narrow but gave a weaker steering than observed when the fetch geometry was broader. The method of Donelan estimated well the direction at the spectral peak in well-defined slanting fetch conditions, but overestimated the longer fetch components during wave growth from a more complex shoreline. Neither the decoupled nor the Donelan model reproduced the observed shifting of direction with the frequency. The performance of the third-generation spectral wave model (WAM) in estimating the wave directions was strongly dependent on the grid resolution of the model. The dominant wave directions were estimated satisfactorily when the grid-step size was dropped to 5 km in the gulf, which is 70 km in its narrowest part. A mechanism based on the weakly nonlinear interactions is proposed to explain the strong steering effect in slanting fetch conditions.
机译：在倾斜的获取条件下，积极增长的波的方向受到获取几何形状的强烈控制。人们发现这种影响在波罗的海的狭长芬兰湾中尤为明显，它显着改变了定向波的气候。使用三个对波分量之间的定向耦合有不同假设的模型来分析负责海湾中波定向行为的物理学。当倾斜的获取几何体较窄时，定向解耦模型可以正确地产生频谱峰值的方向，但与获取几何体较宽时相比，方向性较弱。在定义明确的倾斜获取条件下，Donelan的方法可以很好地估计频谱峰值的方向，但是在从更复杂的海岸线进行波浪生长期间，高估了较长的获取成分。解耦模型和Donelan模型都没有再现观察到的方向随频率的变化。第三代频谱波模型（WAM）在估计波向方面的性能在很大程度上取决于模型的网格分辨率。当网格步长减小到海湾的5 km（最窄部分为70 km）时，可以令人满意地估计主波方向。提出了一种基于弱非线性相互作用的机制来解释倾斜获取条件下的强转向效果。

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  • 来源
    《Journal of Physical Oceanography》 |2010年第1期|155-169|共15页
  • 作者

    Heidi Pettersson; Kimmo K. Kahma; Laura Tuomi;

  • 作者单位

    Marine Research, Finnish Meteorological Institute, P.O. Box 503, FI-00101 Helsinki, Finland;

    Marine Research, Finnish Meteorological Institute, Helsinki, Finland;

    Marine Research, Finnish Meteorological Institute, Helsinki, Finland;

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