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首页> 外文期刊>Journal of Physical Oceanography >Lagrangian Transport by Nonbreaking and Breaking Deep-Water Waves at the Ocean Surface
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Lagrangian Transport by Nonbreaking and Breaking Deep-Water Waves at the Ocean Surface

机译：通过不中断和破坏海面深水波的拉格朗日运输

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Using direct numerical simulations (DNS), Deike et al. found that the wave-breaking-induced mass transport, or drift, at the surface for a single breaking wave scales linearly with the slope of a focusing wave packet, and may be up to an order of magnitude larger than the prediction of the classical Stokes drift. This model for the drift due to an individual breaking wave, together with the statistics of wave breaking measured in the field, are used to compute the Lagrangian drift of breaking waves in the ocean. It is found that breaking may contribute up to an additional 30% to the predicted values of the classical Stokes drift of the wave field for the field experiments considered here, which have wind speeds ranging from 1.6 to 16 m s(-1), significant wave heights in the range of 0.7-4.7 m, and wave ages (defined here as c(m)/u(*), for the spectrally weighted phase velocity c(m) and the wind friction velocity u(*)) ranging from 16 to 150. The drift induced by wave breaking becomes increasingly more important with increasing wind friction velocity and increasing significant wave height.
机译：使用直接数值模拟（DNS），Deike等。发现单个破裂波在表面上的破裂波引起的质量迁移或漂移与聚焦波包的斜率成线性比例，并且可能比经典斯托克斯的预测大一个数量级。漂移。该模型由单个破碎波引起的漂移以及在现场测得的破碎波统计数据用于计算海洋中破碎波的拉格朗日漂移。结果发现，对于此处考虑的野外实验，破裂可能会给波场的经典斯托克斯漂移的预测值贡献最多30％的影响，风速范围为1.6到16 ms（-1），高度在0.7-4.7 m的范围内，波龄（在此处定义为c（m）/ u（*，对于频谱加权的相速度c（m）和风摩擦速度u（*））为16到150。随着风摩擦速度的增加和重要波高的增加，波浪破碎引起的漂移变得越来越重要。

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