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On the Average Shape of the Largest Waves in Finite Water Depths

机译：关于有限水深度最大波的平均形状

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摘要

This paper investigates the average shape of the largest waves arising in finite water depths. Specifically, the largest waves recorded in time histories of the water surface elevation at a single point have been examined. These are compared to commonly applied theories in engineering and oceanographic practice. To achieve this both field observations and a new set of laboratory measurements are considered. The latter concern long random simulations of directionally spread sea states generated using realistic Joint North Sea Wave Project (JONSWAP) frequency spectra. It is shown that approximations related to the linear theory of quasi-determinism (QD) cannot describe some key characteristics of the largest waves. While second-order corrections to the QD predictions provide an improvement, key effects arising in very steep or shallow water sea states are not captured. While studies involving idealized wave groups have demonstrated significant changes arising as a result of higher-order nonlinear wave-wave interactions, these have not been observed in random sea states. The present paper addresses this discrepancy by decomposing random wave measurements into separate populations of breaking and nonbreaking waves. The characteristics of average wave shapes in the two populations are examined and their key differences discussed. These explain the mismatch between findings in earlier random and deterministic wave studies.
机译：本文研究了有限水深度中最大波的平均形状。具体地，已经检查了在单点在单点的水面升高的时间历史中记录的最大波。将这些与工程和海洋学惯例中的常用理论进行比较。为了达到这两个场景观察和一套新的实验室测量。后者涉及使用现实联合北海波项目（JONSWAP）频谱产生的定向扩散海状态的长随机仿真。结果表明，与准确定性（QD）的线性理论相关的近似不能描述最大波的一些关键特征。虽然对QD预测的二阶校正提供了改进，但没有捕获在非常陡峭或浅水海状态下产生的关键效果。虽然涉及理想化波组的研究表明，由于高阶非线性波浪相互作用而产生的显着变化，但这些尚未在随机海状态下观察到这些变化。本文通过将随机波测量分解成分开的破裂和破坏波浪的单独群体来解决这种差异。检查了两种群体中平均波形的特征，并讨论了它们的关键差异。这些解释了早期随机和确定性波动研究中的结果之间的不匹配。

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  • 来源
    《Journal of Physical Oceanography》 |2020年第4期|1023-1043|共21页
  • 作者

    IOANNIS KARMPADAKIS; CHRIS SWAN;

  • 作者单位

    Department of Civil and Environmental Engineering Imperial College London London United Kingdom;

    Department of Civil and Environmental Engineering Imperial College London London United Kingdom;

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