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Ocean wave transmission by submerged reef—A physical model study

机译：潜礁传播海浪的物理模型研究

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Ocean waves can be destructive as steeper waves due to their high energy eroding the sandy beaches. During storm surge or high tide, the water level rises and if large waves occur, they will break closer to the beach, releasing enormous amount of energy resulting in strong currents. This causes heavy loss of beach material due to large-scale erosion. If these waves are made to break prematurely and away from the beach, they can be attenuated so as to reduce beach erosion. The reef, which is a homogeneous pile of armour units without a core, breaks the steeper ocean waves, dissipates a major portion of their energy and transmits attenuated waves. This paper experimentally investigates the armour stone stability of the submerged reef and the influence of its varying distance from shore and crest width on ocean wave transmission.
机译：由于海浪的高能侵蚀沙滩，海浪可能像陡峭的海浪一样具有破坏性。在风暴潮或涨潮时，水位会上升，如果发生大浪，它们将靠近海滩破裂，释放出大量能量，从而产生强烈的水流。由于大规模侵蚀，这导致海滩材料的大量损失。如果使这些波过早破裂并远离海滩，则可以将其衰减以减少海滩侵蚀。礁石是一堆没有核心的装甲部队，是均匀的，可以破碎陡峭的海浪，耗散其大部分能量，并传播衰减的海浪。本文通过实验研究了水下珊瑚礁的装甲石稳定性以及其离岸和岩顶宽度的变化距离对海浪传播的影响。

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