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Observations and conditions for occurrence of dangerous coastal waves

机译：发生危险沿海波的观测和条件

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摘要

People fishing on breakwaters or rocky shores are sometimes swept into the sea by dangerous, large, coastal waves, resulting in drowning incidents in Taiwan. These waves are locally called mad-dog waves. Wave measurements and video recordings were carried out to investigate these events. These events were found to be associated with typhoons or winter (northeasterly) monsoon. The sites of these incidents were at waters deeper than 10 m with rather steep bottom slope (about 1:5, or higher). Among the five incidents investigated, two had high wave groupness features in offshore waves. In one of other three, the mean group-ness characteristics were not strong, but the incident was associated with a group of three waves in increasing heights with nearly equal periods. Interviews with victims and examinations of video footage suggested that the occurrence of mad-dog wave events were results of wave overtopping. A set of possible conditions for the occurrence of these events is proposed. Since exact timing and locations of overtopping are difficult to predict, such waves are called mad-dog waves.
机译：在防波堤或多岩石的海岸上钓鱼的人有时会被危险的，巨大的沿海波浪冲入海中，导致台湾发生溺水事件。这些波在当地称为疯狗波。进行了海浪测量和录像以调查这些事件。发现这些事件与台风或冬季（东北）季风有关。这些事件的发生地点是在深度超过10 m的水域，且底坡相当陡峭（大约1：5或更高）。在所调查的五起事件中，有两起在近海浪中具有高度的波群性特征。在另外三个中，其中一个的平均群特征不强，但该事件与一组三个高度不断增加且几乎相等的波有关。对受害者的采访和录像检查表明，疯狗浪潮事件的发生是浪潮过高的结果。提出了发生这些事件的一组可能条件。由于难以预测确切的超车时刻和位置，因此这种波称为疯狗波。

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