【24h】

Tree

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Although this dazzling dress was named for a client, Mrs. Tree, the mother of model Penelope Tree, the shape of the dress does resemble an uprooted tree. James explained that the dress was designed "with faille stretched like a ruched membrane over a stiffened shell molded not to the figure of the client, but to the shape I wished it were..." He created numerous versions of this dress in various colors between 1955 and 1958. Fabricated in silk taffeta, this iteration is intricately draped and hand-stitched onto a backing. James manipulated only three pattern pieces to create the desired effect. In contrast, the underbodicehasij pattern pieces and 23 rows of boning. The pleated skirt is sewn to the understructure and supported by multicolored tulle underskirts, which show when dancing. Cut with the grain at the hemline, the skirt measures 20 feet at the hemline. The fullness is carefully controlled with 64 single, double-knife, and box pleats and finished with a band at the upper edge. At the Chicago History Museum exhibition, a full-scale replica of the understructure was made by curator Timothy A. Long and replica fabricator Michael Hall for visitors to examine.
机译:尽管这件令人眼花dress乱的衣服是根据客户佩内洛普·特里(Penelope Tree)的母亲树夫人(Mrs. Tree)的名字命名的,但衣服的形状确实像连根拔起的树。詹姆斯解释说,这件衣服的设计是“罗切尔像皱折的膜一样,在坚固的外壳上拉伸,而不是按照客户的身材塑造,而是按照我希望的形状……”他为这件衣服制作了各种颜色的多种版本在1955年和1958年之间。用丝绸塔夫绸制造,此迭代过程非常复杂,并手工缝制在背衬上。詹姆斯只操作了三个样板就可以达到理想的效果。相反,underbodicehasij图案碎片和23行剔骨。百褶裙缝在下部结构上,并由彩色薄纱下裙支撑,跳舞时会显露出来。裙摆在下摆处剪裁有纹理,裙摆在下摆处长20英尺。丰满度通过64个单刀,双刀和盒状褶皱进行仔细控制,并在上边缘处饰有带子。在芝加哥历史博物馆的展览中,策展人蒂莫西·A·朗(Timothy A. Long)和复制品制造商迈克尔·霍尔(Michael Hall)制作了底层结构的完整复制品,供参观者检查。

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    《Threads》 |2012年第159期|p.61|共1页
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