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首页> 外文期刊>Journal of Biomechanics >Biomechanical properties of the crimp grip position in rock climbers.
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Biomechanical properties of the crimp grip position in rock climbers.

机译：攀岩者抓地力位置的生物力学特性。

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摘要

Rock climbers are often using the unique crimp grip position to hold small ledges. Thereby the proximal interphalangeal (PIP) joints are flexed about 90 degrees and the distal interphalangeal joints are hyperextended maximally. During this position of the finger joints bowstringing of the flexor tendon is applying very high load to the flexor tendon pulleys and can cause injuries and overuse syndromes. The objective of this study was to investigate bowstringing and forces during crimp grip position. Two devices were built to measure the force and the distance of bowstringing and one device to measure forces at the fingertip. All measurements of 16 fingers of four subjects were made in vivo. The largest amount of bowstringing was caused by the flexor digitorum profundus tendon in the crimp grip position being less using slope grip position (PIP joint extended). During a warm-up, the distance of bowstringing over the distal edge of the A2 pulley increased by 0.6mm (30%) and was loaded about 3 times the force applied at the fingertip during crimp grip position. Load up to 116N was measured over the A2 pulley. Increase of force in one finger holds by the quadriga effect was shown using crimp and slope grip position.
机译：攀岩者通常使用独特的压接手柄位置来固定小壁架。因此，近端指间关节（PIP）弯曲约90度，远端指间关节最大程度地过度伸展。在手指关节的该位置期间，屈肌腱的弓弦对屈肌腱滑轮施加非常高的负荷，并且可能导致受伤和过度使用综合症。本研究的目的是研究压接握持姿势期间的弓弦和拉力。建立了两个用于测量弓弦拉力和距离的装置，以及一个用于测量指尖力的装置。四个对象的16个手指的所有测量均在体内进行。弓弦的最大发生是由于使用斜握位置（PIP关节伸出）时，在握压位置的屈指前屈肌腱较少。在热身过程中，在A2皮带轮的远端边缘上的弓弦距离增加了0.6mm（30％），并且在压接握持位置时承受的力约为指尖施加力的3倍。在A2皮带轮上测得的最大载荷为116N。使用压接和倾斜握持位置显示了通过四边形效应，一根手指握住的力量增加了。

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