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首页> 外文期刊>Journal of Geophysical Research, C. Oceans: JGR >Infragravity-wave modulation of short-wave celerity in the surf zone
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Infragravity-wave modulation of short-wave celerity in the surf zone

机译：冲浪区短波速度的重力波调制

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摘要

The cross-shore evolution of individual wave celerity is investigated using two highresolution laboratory experiments on bichromatic waves. Individual waves are tracked during their onshore propagation and their characteristics, including celerity, are estimated. The intrawave variability in celerity is low in the shoaling zone but increases strongly after breaking. It is maximum when the infragravity-wave height to water depth ratio is the largest, that is to say close to the shoreline. There the observed range of individual wave celerity can be as large as the mean celerity value. This variability can be largely explained by the variations in water depth and velocity induced by the infragravity waves. The differences in celerity are such that they lead to the merging of the waves in the inner surf zone for most of the wave conditions considered. Again, the location at which the first waves start merging strongly correlates with the infragravity-wave height to water depth ratio. The consequences of these findings for celerity-based depth-inversion techniques are finally discussed. Surprisingly, accounting for the infragravity-wave modulation of the velocity field in the celerity estimate does not significantly improve depth estimation in the surf zone. However, it is shown that the occurrence of bore merging decreases significantly the coherence of the wavefield in the surf zone. This loss of coherence could hamper celerity estimation from pixel intensity time series and explain, at least partly, the relatively poor performance of depth-inversion techniques in the inner surf zone.
机译：使用两个高分辨率双色波实验室实验研究了单个波速度的跨岸演化。在陆上传播过程中跟踪单个海浪，并估算其特征，包括速度。在浅滩区，波速内部的波动性较低，但在破裂后会大大增加。当重力波高度与水深之比最大（即靠近海岸线）时，该值最大。在那里观察到的单个波速度的范围可以与平均速度值一样大。这种变化可以很大程度上由次重力波引起的水深和速度的变化来解释。速度差异是如此之大，以至于考虑到大多数波浪情况，它们会导致内部冲浪区中的波浪合并。同样，第一波开始合并的位置与次重力波高度与水深之比密切相关。最后讨论了这些发现对基于速度的深度反演技术的影响。出人意料的是，在速度估计中考虑速度场的红外波调制并不能显着改善冲浪区的深度估计。然而，已表明，孔合并的发生显着降低了冲浪区中波场的相干性。相干性的这种损失可能会妨碍根据像素强度时间序列进行的速度估计，并且至少部分地解释了内部冲浪区中深度反演技术的相对较差的性能。

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