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首页> 外文期刊>Journal of Geophysical Research. Biogeosciences >A mechanism for the generation of wave-driven rhythmic patterns in the surf zone
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A mechanism for the generation of wave-driven rhythmic patterns in the surf zone

机译：在冲浪区中产生波动驱动的节奏型的机制

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摘要

The coupling between topographic irregularities and wave-driven mean water motion in the surf zone is examined. This coupling occurs because the topographic perturbations produce excess gradients in the wave radiation stress that cause a steady circulation. This circulation, in turn, creates a sediment transport pattern that can reinforce the bottom disturbance and may thereby lead to the growth of large-scale bed forms. To investigate this coupling mechanism, the linearized stability problem with an originally plane sloping beach and normal wave incidence is solved in two different cases. First, the breaking line is considered to be fixed, and second, the perturbations in water depth that produce a displacement of the breaker line are accounted for. The first case shows that the basic topography can be unstable with respect to two different modes: a giant cusp pattern with shore-attached transverse bars that extend across the whole surf zone and a crescentic pattern with alternate shoals and pools at both sides of the breaking line showing a mirroring effect. In the second case, the varying breaker line may have a strong influence on the circulation. This is clear for the giant cusp topography whose growth is totally inhibited. In contrast, the morphology and the growth of the crescentic pattern remains almost unchanged. [References: 40]
机译：研究了地形不规则性与冲浪区波浪驱动的平均水运动之间的耦合。之所以发生这种耦合，是因为地形微扰在波浪辐射应力中产生了过度的梯度，从而导致了稳定的循环。反过来，这种循环产生了一种沉积物传输模式，该模式可以增强底部扰动，从而导致大型床层的生长。为了研究这种耦合机制，在两种不同情况下解决了具有原始平面倾斜海滩和法向波入射的线性化稳定性问题。首先，认为断裂线是固定的，其次，考虑了造成断裂线位移的水深扰动。第一种情况表明，基本地形对于两种不同的模式可能是不稳定的：一个巨大的尖峰图案，在整个冲浪区上都延伸有附着于岸上的横筋;以及一个新月形的图案，在断裂的两侧都有交替的浅滩和水池线显示镜像效果。在第二种情况下，变化的断路器管路可能会对循环产生很大影响。对于其生长被完全抑制的巨型尖峰形地貌而言，这是显而易见的。相反，月牙形的形态和生长几乎保持不变。 [参考：40]

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