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首页> 外文期刊>Clinics in dermatology >Skin nonpenetrating sunscreens for cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulations.
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Skin nonpenetrating sunscreens for cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulations.

机译：用于化妆品和药物制剂的不渗透皮肤的防晒霜。

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摘要

Ultraviolet (UV) solar radiation produces harmful effects on the skin including sunburn, local immunosuppression, skin photoaging, and cutaneous malignancies. Although application of sunscreens is the "gold standard" for protecting the skin from UV radiation, studies have shown that currently used sunscreens can cause adverse skin and systemic reactions, owing to their penetration into the viable cutaneous strata and to transdermal absorption. This paper presents new nonpermeating sunscreens (NPSUN) suitable for use in cosmetic and pharmaceutical products. The basic idea behind the design of the new photoprotectors was to immobilize UV-absorbing moieties in the Jojoba oil chemical backbone. The physicochemical characteristics of NPSUNs allow these derivatives to remain confined to the upper stratum corneum where the sunscreen molecule acts, with no further clearance to deeper dermal strata or systemic circulation. As an example, no permeation across the skin of methoxycinnamate-NPSUN was observed during 24-hour in vitro experiments, after topical application of either unformulated substances or of methoxycinnamate-NPSUNs formulated in oil-in-water cream, in water-in-oil cream, or in Jojoba oil. Another approach to increase the photoprotective effect against the UV radiation is targeting the delivery of alpha tocopherol into the deeper skin layers and across the cell membranes. This is necessary for optimal photoprotection and prevention of malignant processes. For this purpose, ethosomal vitamin E compositions were designed, characterized, and tested. Efficient intracellular and dermal accumulation of vitamin E from ethosomes was demonstrated. A good clinical strategy could be the use of NPSUNs during direct UV exposure followed by the application of alpha-tocopherol compositions after short- or long-term solar radiation.
机译：紫外线（UV）对皮肤产生有害影响，包括晒伤，局部免疫抑制，皮肤光老化和皮肤恶性肿瘤。尽管防晒霜的使用是保护皮肤免受紫外线辐射的“金标准”，但研究表明，目前使用的防晒霜会渗透到可行的皮肤层中并经皮吸收，因此会引起不利的皮肤和全身反应。本文介绍了适用于化妆品和药品的新型不渗透防晒霜（NPSUN）。新型光保护剂设计背后的基本思想是将霍霍巴石油化学骨架中的吸收紫外线的部分固定化。 NPSUNs的物理化学特性使这些衍生物能够被限制在防晒分子起作用的角质层上层，而不会进一步清除深层真皮层或全身循环。例如，在局部应用未配制物质或水包油乳膏，油包水中局部配制的非配方物质或甲氧基肉桂酸酯-NPSUNs的情况下，在24小时体外实验中未观察到甲氧基肉桂酸酯-NPSUN的皮肤渗透。霜或荷荷巴油中。增强对紫外线辐射的光保护作用的另一种方法是靶向将α-生育酚递送到更深的皮肤层中并穿过细胞膜。这对于最佳的光保护和预防恶性过程是必需的。为此目的，设计，表征和测试了酶体维生素E组合物。证明了来自脂质体的维生素E在细胞内和皮肤中的有效积累。良好的临床策略可能是在直接暴露于紫外线期间使用NPSUN，然后在短期或长期的太阳辐射后使用α-生育酚组合物。

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