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A modeling-based analysis of processes driving wave-dominated inlets

机译:基于模型的驱动波主导入口的过程分析

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Among the different types of tidal inlets, wave-dominated inlets have been subjected to few quantitative studies, so that the physical processes controlling their dynamics are not fully understood. This study presents the application of a coastal area morphodynamic modeling system to a wave-dominated inlet (Obidos Inlet, western coast of Portugal), in order to investigate the physical processes responsible for channel development during fair weather conditions and shoaling during periods of larger waves. The modeling system was able to reproduce reasonably well morphological changes at the larger Obidos Inlet and subsequent tidal amplitude evolutions inside the lagoon over a period which includes 3 months of fair weather conditions, followed by 2 months representative of winter conditions. The inlet development during fair weather conditions was attributed to the strong ebb-dominance of the main channel without waves, enhanced by the combination of shallow channels and a meso-tidal range. The inlet infilling during the maritime winter was attributed to three main wave-induced mechanisms: (1) the onshore component of wave radiation stresse gradients, which is not fully compensated by the wave-induced setup in front of the inlet; (2) the acceleration and convergence of longshore transport toward the inlet, due to the presence of a strong lateral gradient in free surface elevation on both sides of the inlet, and, to a smaller extent, to wave refraction around the ebb-delta; and (3) the increase in mean water level inside the lagoon, which reduces tidal asymmetry and subsequent ebb-dominance.
机译:在不同类型的潮汐进口中,以波浪为主的进口几乎没有进行定量研究,因此控制其动力学的物理过程尚未得到充分了解。这项研究提出了沿海地区形态动力学建模系统在以波浪为主的进水口(葡萄牙西海岸的奥比多斯湾)的应用,以便研究在天气晴朗的条件下通道发展以及在大浪期间进行浅滩形成的物理过程。 。该模型系统能够在较大的Obidos入口处合理再现良好的形态变化,并随后在包括3个月的晴天在内的2个月内代表冬季状况的时间段内,使泻湖内的潮汐振幅演变。天气晴朗条件下的进水口发展归因于没有波浪的主河道的强烈退潮,而浅水道和中潮距的结合则增强了这一优势。海上冬季进水口的充填归因于三个主要的波浪诱发机制:(1)波浪辐射应力梯度的陆上分量,并没有完全由进水口前方的波浪诱发装置所补偿; (2)由于在进口两侧自由表面高程中存在很强的侧向梯度,并且在较小程度上波涛围绕着起伏-三角洲,近岸运输向进口加速和收敛。 (3)泻湖内部平均水位的增加,减少了潮汐的不对称性和随后的退潮现象。

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