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FLORAL AND PLANT DESIGNS IN NOH COSTUMES

机译:服装中的花卉和植物设计

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摘要

About 2730 pieces of Noh costumes made during 16th-19th century were examined to know what kinds of flowers or plants were used for motifs on costumes. About 90% of costumes for female roles such as Karaori, Nuihaku, Maiginu and Choken were designed with one or more kinds of ornamental or wild plants, which were woven, embroidered, or pressed with gold or silver leaf, and 106 species of plants were identified. Some of the most numerous plants represented were chrysanthemum, flowering cherry, peony, paulownia, pine and Lespedeza sp., etc. Some weeds and aquatic plants such as dandelion, Galium sp., Monochoria sp. and Sagittaria sp., and many imaginary plants, that is Karahana (fancy flower) and Karakusa (leaf scroll), were also recognized. Unidentified plants were only found in 1% of samples. Historical background of the special taste of the Japanese for using various actual flowers and plants as designs for costumes is discussed.
机译:检查了16-19世纪制造的2730件能剧服装,以了解哪种花卉或植物被用作服装的图案。大约90%的女性角色服装(例如Karaori,Nuihaku,Maiginu和Choken)是用一种或多种观赏植物或野生植物设计的,这些植物是用金或银叶编织,刺绣或压制而成的,其中有106种植物确定。所代表的最多的植物中的一些是菊花,开花的樱桃,牡丹,泡桐,松树和Lespedeza sp。等。一些杂草和水生植物,例如蒲公英,Galium sp。,Monochoria sp.。也被认为是矢车菊和矢状芽胞杆菌,还有许多假想的植物,即花香卡拉汉娜和卷轴葛叶。未鉴定的植物仅在1%的样品中发现。讨论了日本人使用各种实际花草作为服装设计时的特殊口味的历史背景。

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