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首页> 外文期刊>Continental Shelf Research: A Companion Journal to Deep-Sea Research and Progress in Oceanography >Observations of surface-gravity-wave scattering and dissipation by an isolated shoal related to a cuspate foreland
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Observations of surface-gravity-wave scattering and dissipation by an isolated shoal related to a cuspate foreland

机译：孤立的浅滩与肠外浅滩的表面重力波散射和耗散观察

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Inner-shelf and shoreline morphology exert control on the variability of gravity waves. Although gravity waves can influence nearshore morphodynamics, their behavior is not well understood at inner-shelves close to cuspate forelands with complex bathymetry. In order to study the effects of cape shoals on gravity wave variability, water level and velocity data were collected during Fall 2013, Spring 2014, and Fall 2014 within the swales on either side of Shoal E, near Cape Canaveral, Florida. Short wave energy fluxes (periods from 3 to 20 s, or frequencies from 50 to similar to 300 mHz) were calculated from time series of spectral densities, whereas cross-shoal infragravity energy fluxes (periods from 20 to 500 s, or frequencies from 2 to 50 mHz) were calculated from cross-spectra of pressure and cross-shoal velocities. Ratios of short-gravity-wave energy fluxes between inner and outer swales of Shoal E ranged from 0.5 to 3. Values 1 were typically associated to large (wave heights 1 m) and short waves (periods 5 s) likely related to dissipation. Ratios 1 were exhibited by large and long (periods 10 s) waves because of refraction. Values close to 1 were related to small waves regardless of the wavelength. In addition, infragravity reflection coefficients were quantified as the ratio of seaward to landward infragravity energy fluxes. Reflection coefficients and spatial variations in infragravity fluxes indicate that instruments were located in the shoaling zone during Fall 2013 and Fall 2014. Infragravity energy flux differences between inner and outer swales further suggest Shoal E may have acted as a source of infragravity energy. Differences in reflection between swales on either side of Shoal E could be attributed to asymmetric short-wave shoaling and breaking, partial infragravity reflection, and infragravity energy trapping near the shoal. However, instrument configuration did not allow for along-shoal calculations, which hindered resolution of edge wa
机译：内架和海岸线形态施加对重力波的变异性的控制。虽然重力波可以影响近岸的形态学性，但他们的行为并不是很好地理解，内部搁置靠近伴有复杂的沐浴浴。为了研究披着披肩对重力波变异性的影响，2013年秋季秋季秋季秋季的水位和速度数据，佛罗里达州大角湾的萨卡瓦尔州萨卡瓦尔州的洼地内，2014年秋季2014年。从时间序列的光谱密度序列计算短波能量通量（3至20秒的时间，或50至20〜类似于300 MHz的频率），而跨浅滩Intravavity能量通量（从20到500秒的时间或2次从压力和跨浅速度的交叉光谱计算到50MHz）。浅级浅波能量通量的浅源和外散瓦之间的比率范围为0.5至3.值＆图1通常与大（波浪高1M）和可能与耗散相关的短波（时段<5秒）相关联。由于折射，通过大而长（10秒）波呈现比率1。无论波长如何，接近1的值与小波有关。此外，InfraGravity反射系数被量化为海上与陆地上的Invagravity能量通量的比率。 Intravavity助势中的反射系数和空间变化表明，2013年下降期间的仪器位于楼梯区和2014年秋季。内部和外萨尔斯之间的IntraGravity能量通量差异进一步提出浅层浅驼可能作为Intravavity能量的来源。浅层岩e两侧的洼地之间的差异可能归因于浅滩附近的非对称短波挖掘和破碎，部分Intrabravity反射和Invagravity能量捕获。但是，仪器配置不允许沿着浅滩计算，这阻碍了边缘的分辨率

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