IN THE FALL of last year, I had the opportunity to bicycle across America with a friend. But there was just one problem: Our scheduled departure date—September i—interfered with pawpaw season. And this particular year was special. My backyard trees,some of which I'd started from seed seven years ago, were set to produce their first crop. I couldn't imagine being absent."It is said that no habit gets a stronger hold on a man than the pawpaw habit," wrote L.C. Breed for The Seed World in 1921. Almost a century later, and here I was, another in a long line of gardeners entranced by the pawpaw. I decided to sacrifice the first two weeks of the trip in order to tend to my first backyard-grown fruit.
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