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首页> 外文期刊>Earth Surface Processes and Landforms: The journal of the British Geomorphological Research Group >Hydrodynamic constraints and storm wave characteristics on a sub-horizontal shore platform
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Hydrodynamic constraints and storm wave characteristics on a sub-horizontal shore platform

机译：亚水平海岸平台上的水动力约束和风暴波特征

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Few studies of wave processes on shore platforms have addressed the hydrodynamic thresholds that control wave transformation and energy dissipation, especially under storm conditions. We present results of a field experiment conducted during a storm on a sub-horizontal shore platform on the east coast of Auckland, New Zealand. Small (<0.5m) locally generated waves typically occur at the field site, whereas during the experiment the offshore wave height reached 2.3m. Our results illustrate the important control that platform morphology has on wave characteristics. At the seaward edge of the platform a scarp abruptly descends beneath low tide level. Wave height immediately seaward of the platform was controlled by the incident conditions, but near the cliff toe wave height on the platform was independent of incident conditions. Results show that a depth threshold at the seaward platform edge>2.5 times the gravity wave height (0.05-0.33Hz) is necessary for waves to propagate onto the platform without breaking. On the platform surface the wave height is a direct function of water depth, with limiting maximum wave height to water depth ratios of 0.55 and 0.78 at the centre of the platform and cliff toe, respectively. A relative platform edge submergence' (water depth/water height ratio) threshold of 1.1 is identified, below which infragravity (<0.05Hz) wave energy dominates the platform energy spectra, and above which gravity waves are dominant. Infragravity wave height transformation across the platform is governed by the relative platform edge submergence. Finally, the paper describes the first observations of wave setup on a shore platform. During the peak of the storm, wave setup on the platform at low tide (0.21m) is consistent with measurements from planar sandy beaches, but at higher tidal stages the ratio between incident wave height and maximum setup was lower than expected. Copyright (c) 2014 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.
机译：海岸平台上波浪过程的研究很少涉及控制波浪转换和能量消散的流体动力学阈值，特别是在风暴条件下。我们介绍了在风暴中在新西兰奥克兰东海岸的亚水平海岸平台上进行的现场实验的结果。在现场通常会产生小的（<0.5m）本地产生的波浪，而在实验过程中，海上波浪的高度达到2.3m。我们的结果说明了平台形态对波浪特征的重要控制。在平台的向海边缘，陡峭的陡峭陡峭的悬崖陡降。平台正向海浪的高度受入射条件的控制，但在平台的悬崖脚趾附近，波高与入射条件无关。结果表明，向海平台边缘的深度阈值必须大于重力波高度的2.5倍（0.05-0.33Hz），才能使波传播到平台上而不会破裂。在平台表面上，波高是水深的直接函数，在平台和悬崖脚趾的中心，最大波高与水深之比分别限制为0.55和0.78。确定了一个相对的平台边缘浸没（水深/水高比）阈值1.1，低于该阈值时，地脚下（<0.05Hz）波能量主导平台能谱，高于该水平时，重力波占主导地位。平台上的重力波高度转换受平台相对边缘淹没的控制。最后，本文描述了在岸台上波浪形波的最初观测结果。在暴风雨高峰期间，在低潮（0.21m）时平台上的波浪形成与平面沙滩的测量结果一致，但是在较高的潮汐阶段，入射波高度与最大设置之间的比率低于预期。版权所有（c）2014 John Wiley＆Sons，Ltd.

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