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首页> 外文期刊>Earth Surface Processes and Landforms: The journal of the British Geomorphological Research Group >Backshore coarsening processes triggered by wave-induced sand transport: The critical role of storm events
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Backshore coarsening processes triggered by wave-induced sand transport: The critical role of storm events

机译：波浪引起的沙粒运输引发的后海粗化过程：风暴事件的关键作用

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摘要

Spatial backshore processes were investigated through field observations of topography and median sand grain size at a sandy beach facing the Pacific Ocean in Japan. A comparison of the backshore profile and cross-shore distribution of the median sand grain size in 1999 and 2004 revealed an unusual sedimentary process in which sand was coarsened in a depositional area in the 5-year period, although sediment is generally coarsened in erosional areas. In support of these observations, monthly spatial field analyses carried out in 2004 demonstrated a remarkable backshore coarsening process triggered by sedimentation in the seaward part of the backshore during a storm event. In order to elucidate mechanisms involved in the backshore coarsening process, thresholds of movable sand grain size under wave and wind actions (a uniform parameter for both these cases) in the onshore and offshore directions were estimated using wave, tide, and wind data. The cross-shore distributions of the estimated thresholds provided reasonable values and demonstrated a coarsening mechanism involving the intermediate zone around the shoreline under alternating wave and wind actions as a result of which coarse sand was transported toward the seaward part of the backshore by large waves during storms and then toward the landward part by strong onshore winds. The 5-year backshore coarsening is most certainly explained by repetition of short-term coarsening mechanisms caused by wave-induced sand transport occurring from the nearshore to the intermediate zone.
机译：通过对日本太平洋面对的沙滩的地形和中值沙粒大小的野外观察，调查了空间近岸过程。通过对1999年和2004年中值沙粒大小的近岸剖面和跨岸分布的比较，发现了一个不寻常的沉积过程，其中在5年的沉积区域中使沙粒变粗，尽管在侵蚀区域中沉积物通常会变粗。为了支持这些观察，2004年进行的每月空间场分析表明，在暴风雨期间，后海沿岸部分的沉积引发了异常的后海粗化过程。为了阐明沿海粗化过程中涉及的机制，使用波浪，潮汐和风力数据估算了陆上和海上方向在波浪和风作用下可移动沙粒尺寸的阈值（这两种情况下的统一参数）。估计阈值的跨岸分布提供了合理的值，并表明了在波浪和风的交替作用下涉及海岸线周围中间区域的粗化机制，其结果是，粗砂在大浪期间被运往后海的海域。暴风雨，然后由强陆风吹向陆上部分。可以肯定地说，五年反复的近岸粗化是由于波浪引起的从近岸到中间区的砂传输引起的短期粗化机制的重复。

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