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首页> 外文期刊>Earth Surface Processes and Landforms: The journal of the British Geomorphological Research Group >Field observations of wave refraction and propagation pathways on coral reef platforms
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Field observations of wave refraction and propagation pathways on coral reef platforms

机译：珊瑚礁平台上波折射和传播路径的现场观察

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摘要

Field experiments were conducted to investigate the refraction and propagation of ocean waves across two coral reef platforms in the Maldives, central Indian Ocean. A total of seven pressure sensors were deployed on each reef to quantify temporal and spatial variations in wave characteristics across the platform surfaces. Directional wave properties were calculated from high frequency (2 Hz) wave and current records obtained at two locations on each reef and corroborate theoretically predicted propagation pathways derived from an analytical wave refraction model. Results demonstrate that reef geometry critically controls the refraction and propagation behaviour of incident swell across the reef structures. Differences in the magnitude of refraction (approximately 57° and 14°) observed on each reef can be attributed to variations in platform shape and orientation to incident waves. Results demonstrate that reef flat wave patterns define the segmentation of platform surfaces into distinctive high and low wave energy zones. Furthermore, wave focussing has been identified as a major mechanism controlling the transformation of wave energy across the reefs. Results provide the first field-based validation of wave refraction and convergence on coral reefs and have significant implications for sedimentation processes and the formation of platform deposits. Reef configurations which promote marked wave convergence are more likely to retain sediment on the reef surface, whereas platforms that induce less refraction and changes in the direction of incident waves have a higher potential for the off-reef evacuation of sediment over leeward reef margins. Results of wave measurements substantiate such projections and provide a first order explanation for the existence and absence of a coral cay on the two study reefs. The study presents empirical evidence of wave refraction and convergence on coral reefs and establishes a baseline for future investigations of hydrodynamic process controls on platform sedimentation and island formation.
机译：进行了野外实验，以调查海浪在印度洋中部马尔代夫的两个珊瑚礁平台上的折射和传播。每个礁石上总共部署了七个压力传感器，以量化整个平台表面波浪特征的时空变化。根据在每个礁石上两个位置处获得的高频（2 Hz）波和电流记录来计算方向波属性，并证实了从解析波折射模型得出的理论上预测的传播路径。结果表明，礁石的几何形状决定性地控制了礁石结构上入射膨胀的折射和传播行为。在每个礁石上观察到的折射幅度的差异（大约57°和14°）可以归因于平台形状和入射波方向的变化。结果表明，礁石平坦的波型定义了平台表面到不同的高波和低波能量区的分割。此外，波浪聚焦已被确定为控制跨礁的波浪能量转换的主要机制。结果提供了第一个基于现场的波折射和珊瑚礁收敛的验证，对沉积过程和平台沉积物的形成具有重要意义。促进显着波收敛的礁构造更可能将沉积物保留在礁表面上，而引起较少折射和入射波方向变化的平台则具有在背风礁边缘将沉积物从礁外撤离的更大潜力。波浪测量的结果证实了这种预测，并为两个研究礁石上是否存在珊瑚礁提供了一级解释。该研究提供了波浪折射和在珊瑚礁上收敛的经验证据，并为未来研究平台沉积和岛屿形成的流体动力学过程控制奠定了基础。

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