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首页> 外文期刊>Earth Surface Processes and Landforms: The journal of the British Geomorphological Research Group >Nearshore circulation over transverse bar and rip morphology with oblique wave forcing
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Nearshore circulation over transverse bar and rip morphology with oblique wave forcing

机译：横波的近岸环流和倾斜波强迫引起的裂隙形态

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摘要

There is a paucity of field data to describe the transition in nearshore circulation between alongshore, meandering and rip current systems. A combination of in-situ current meters and surf zone drifters are used to characterize the nearshore circulation over a transverse bar and rip morphology at Pensacola Beach, Florida in the presence of relatively low energy oblique waves. Current speeds vary in response to the relative wave height ratio (H_s/h), which defines the degree and extent of breaking over the shoal. In the absence of wave breaking the nearshore circulation was dominated by an alongshore current driven by the oblique waves. As waves begin to break across the shoal (0.20.5), the meandering current is replaced by an unsteady rip circulation that moves offshore between the shoals before turning alongshore in the direction of wave advance outside the surf zone. The increase in wave dissipation is associated with an increase in very low frequency (VLF) variations in the current speed across the shoal and in the rip channel that caused the circulation to oscillate between an offshore and an alongshore flow. The unsteady nature of the nearshore circulation is responsible for 55% of all surf zone exits under these more dissipative conditions. In contrast, only 29% of the drifters released from the shoal exited the surf zone and bypassed the adjacent shoal with the alongshore-meandering current. While the currents had a low velocity (maximum of~0.4ms~(-1)) and would not pose a significant hazard to the average swimmer, the results of this study suggest that the transverse bar and rip morphology is sufficient to create an alongshore variation in wave dissipation that forces alongshore meandering and low-energy rip circulation systems under oblique wave forcing.
机译：缺乏实地数据来描述近岸，曲折和裂隙水流系统之间近岸环流的过渡。在低能量斜波的存在下，结合使用原位电流计和冲浪带漂移器来表征佛罗里达州彭萨科拉海滩的横杆上的近岸环流和裂隙形态。当前速度根据相对波高比（H_s / h）而变化，该相对波高比定义了浅滩破裂的程度和程度。在没有海浪破坏的情况下，近海环流主要由斜波驱动的近海流所控制。随着海浪开始冲破浅滩（0.2 0.5），蜿蜒的水流被不稳定的裂隙环流所代替，该裂隙环流在浅滩之间向离岸移动，然后沿波前的方向沿岸线转向海浪之外。波浪消散的增加与整个浅滩和裂谷通道中极低频率（VLF）变化的增加有关，这导致环流在近海和近岸水流之间振荡。在这些耗散性更大的条件下，近岸环流的不稳定性质造成了所有冲浪区出口的55％。相比之下，从浅滩释放的漂流器中只有29％离开了冲浪区，并沿岸蜿蜒流绕过了相邻的浅滩。尽管洋流流速较低（最大约0.4ms〜（-1）），不会对普通游泳者构成重大危害，但这项研究的结果表明，横杠和裂谷形态足以形成近岸斜向强迫作用下强迫沿岸曲折和低能裂隙循环系统的波浪耗散变化。

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