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Equilibrium Profile and System of Submarine Coastal Bars

机译：海底沿海酒吧的平衡剖面和系统

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A new version of the energetic principle determining the equilibrium coastal profile is suggested.It is postulated that the wave energy dissipation rate in the coastal region is proportional to the energy proper normalized by volume.The new concept predicts the appearance of multiple submarine bars in the coastal zone for the most common type of dynamic conditions.The monotonous equilibrium profile suggested by Dean [14] is also possible as a particular case.The concept suggested here reconciles the two main viewpoints on the nature of submarine bars and explains them as a result of the wave energy dissipation process that occurs against the background of weak infragravity water level fluctuations in the coastal zone.A well-pronounced bar system appears at the ratio of long wave energy to short wave energy of the order of only 10~2.On the basis of the equation for the equilibrium profile obtained,it is possible to restore the main properties of the coastal profile observed on the accumulative sandy beaches of various seas.The period of infragravity oscillations determining the spatial step of the submarine bar system was found to be comparable with the period of the wave wind groups under marine conditions.
机译：提出了一种新的确定平衡海岸轮廓的能量原理，假设海岸区域的波浪能量耗散率与按体积归一化的能量成正比，这一新概念预测了海底棒中多条海底棒的出现。 Dean [14]提出的单调平衡剖面在特殊情况下也是可能的。这里提出的概念调和了关于海底钢筋性质的两个主要观点，并对其进行了解释。在沿海地区弱重力水位波动的背景下发生的波浪能量消散过程的结果，长波能量与短波能量之比仅为10〜2的比例出现了一个发音良好的条形系统。根据获得的平衡剖面方程的基础，有可能恢复在累积量上观察到的沿海剖面的主要性质发现海底条形系统空间阶跃的次重力振荡周期与海洋条件下的波浪风团周期相当。

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