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首页> 美国政府科技报告 >Nearshore and Surf-Zone Morphodynamics: A Global Environmental Model for Predicting Hazards and Changes. Appendix 2. Short Term Changes in the Morphodynamic States of Beaches and Surf Zones: An Emperical Predictive Model
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Nearshore and Surf-Zone Morphodynamics: A Global Environmental Model for Predicting Hazards and Changes. Appendix 2. Short Term Changes in the Morphodynamic States of Beaches and Surf Zones: An Emperical Predictive Model

机译：近岸和冲浪区形态动力学：预测危害和变化的全球环境模型。附录2.海滩和冲浪区形态动力学状态的短期变化：一种物理预测模型

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A time series of 6.5 years of daily observations of beach states and wave characteristics from southeastern Australia was analyzed with the aim of determining the degree to which time-varying beach state can be explained and predicted. The six commonly occurring beach states (dissipative, longshore bar trough, rhythmic bar and beach, transverse bar and rip, low-tide terrace, and reflective), discussed earlier, were related, by means of discrete discriminant analyses, to the parameter omega = Hb/WsT) (where Hb if breaker height, Ws is the fall velocity of the beach sand, and T is peak breaker period) using a total of 1545 cases. Two Omega values were used in the analyses: the immediate value occurring on the day the particular state was observed and a weighted mean value expressing recently antecedent conditions. The immediate value made a negligible contribution to explaining day-to-day beach state observations: however, the antecedent conditions showed a strong relationship and provide a successful means of prediction. By examining cases where the time derivatives of both state and Omega were near zero, it was possible to define the equilibrium conditions associated with each state. Directions of change (erosional or accretionary) are predicted in terms of departures of omega from the equilibrium value appropriate to the beach state prevailing at the time change begins. (Reprints).

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