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首页> 美国政府科技报告 >Nearshore and Surf-Zone Morphodynamics: A Global Environmental Model for Predicting Hazards and Changes. Appendix 1. Morphodynamic Variability of Surf Zones and Beaches: A Synthesis
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Nearshore and Surf-Zone Morphodynamics: A Global Environmental Model for Predicting Hazards and Changes. Appendix 1. Morphodynamic Variability of Surf Zones and Beaches: A Synthesis

机译：近岸和冲浪区形态动力学：预测危害和变化的全球环境模型。附录1.冲浪带和海滩的形态动力学变化：综合

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The paper deals with the different natural beach states, the process signatures associated with these states, environmental controls on modal beach state, and the temporal variability of beach state and beach profiles. Hydrodynamic processes and the relative contributions of different mechanisms to sediment transport and morphologic change differ dramatically as functions of beach state, that is depending on whether the surf zone and beach are reflective, dissipative or in one of several intermediate states. Depending on beach state, near bottom currents show variations in the relative dominance of motions due to: incident waves, subharmonic oscillations, infragravity oscillations, and mean longshore and rip currents. On reflective beaches, incident waves and subharmonic edge waves are dominant. In highly dissipative surf zones, shoreward decay of incident waves is accompanied by shoreward growth of infragravity energy; in the inner surf zone, currents associated with infragravity energy; in the inner surf zone, currents associated with infragravity standing waves dominate. On intermediate states with promounced bar-trough (straight or crescentic) topographies, incident wave orbital velocities are generally dominant but significant roles are also played by subharmonic and infragravity standing waves, longshore currents, and rips. The strong rips and associated feeder currents occur in association with intermediate transverse bar and rip topographies. (Reprints)

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