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Longshore Current Characteristics in Madura Strait

机译:马杜拉海峡的龙岸目前特征

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Bathymetri became the important factors affected the stability of the ocean waves. Wave instability due to the depth changes will form breaking waves. After breaking waves came, longshore current were occurred in coastal. It is very important when studied sediment transports and its effected on the beach stability. This research aims to know the characteristics of the longshore current which is formed due to the breaking waves in Madura Strait. Wind Data during August 2008-2013 is obtained from BMKG Surabaya and became the main material in this study. Wind Data are analyzed and converted into wave parameters and calculated breaking wave and longshore currents as well as the sediment transport. Results showed the relative small longshore currents (0.865-0.918 m/s) with direction from West to East amount 15° (according to the angle of breaking waves) allegedly caused relative wave height and period, and the second parameter is assumed similar for all points is caused the conversion of wind data. Direction of longshore current is formed from West to East amount 15° (according to the angle of breaking waves). Longshore sediment transport is 0.30-0.36 m3/s, linear with the magnitude of the wave energy flux, so the height and angle of breaking waves into a decisive factor in sediment transport
机译:Bathymetri成为影响海浪稳定性的重要因素。由于深度变化导致的波稳定性将形成断裂波。破碎后,龙岸电流发生在沿海。当研究沉积物运输时非常重要,在海滩稳定性上实现。该研究旨在了解由于Madura海峡中的破碎波浪而形成的龙底电流的特征。 2008 - 2013年8月的风数据是从BMKG Surabaya获得的,成为本研究中的主要材料。将风数据分析并转换为波参数,并计算出破波和龙头电流以及沉积物。结果表明,据称引起相对波高和周期的相对小的龙头电流(0.865-0.918 m / s,方向向西向东35°(根据破碎波角),并且假设第二个参数相似点导致风数据的转换。龙岸电流的方向由西部到东部15°(根据破裂角的角度)形成。龙岸沉积物运输为0.30-0.36m3 / s,线性与波能量通量的大小,因此破碎波的高度和角度变成了沉积物运输的决定性因素

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