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Structural Analysis of a Modern o/w-Emulsion Stabilized by a Polyglycerol Ester Emulsifier and Consistency Enhancers

机译:聚甘油酯乳化剂和稠度增强剂稳定的现代o / w乳液的结构分析

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The aim of our work was to study the structure of a typical modern cosmetic oil-in-water emulsion (o/w-emulsion), based on the emulsifier polyglyceryl-3 dicitrate/stearate and glycerylstearate/stearyl alcohol as consistency enhancer. We have used a systematic approach building up the cosmetic emulsion step by step, characterizing all systems by using Small Angle Neutron Scattering (SANS), Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC), Freeze Fracture Transmission Electron Microscopy (FF-TEM), light microscopy and rheology. The starting point was the pure emulsifier in water, which was shown to form lamellar stacked bilayers with a spacing of 7 nm, coexisting with polydisperse unilamellar vesicles in the sub-?μm range. Upon addition of consistency enhancer, also multilamellar vesicles could be obtained. Then, oil has been added stepwise, until finally a complete cosmetic o/w-emulsion was obtained. In the final emulsion, oil droplets with sizes in the ?μm range are surrounded by multiple, irregularly spaced bilayer structures and vesicles. Approximately 30% of the water present in the system shows a restricted mobility (a??encapsulated watera??) according to PFG-NMR. Crucial for the viscosity build-up is the presence of the oil droplets; a cream-like consistency is obtained by steric interaction of oil droplets and crystalline bilayer structures in the aqueous phase of the emulsion.
机译:我们的工作目的是研究基于乳化剂聚甘油三酸二甘油酯/硬脂酸酯和甘油硬脂酸酯/硬脂醇作为稠度增强剂的典型现代化妆品水包油乳液(o / w-乳液)的结构。我们已使用一种系统的方法逐步构建化妆品乳液,通过使用小角中子散射(SANS),差示扫描量热法(DSC),冷冻断裂透射电子显微镜(FF-TEM),光学显微镜和流变学来表征所有系统。起始点是在水中的纯乳化剂,它被证明可以形成间距为7 nm的层状叠层双层膜,与亚微米级以下的多分散单层囊泡共存。加入稠度增强剂后,也可以获得多层囊泡。然后,逐步加入油,直到最终获得完整的化妆品o / w乳液。在最终乳液中,尺寸在?μm范围内的油滴被多个不规则间隔的双层结构和囊泡包围。根据PFG-NMR,存在于该系统中的水的约30%显示出受限的迁移率(α12封装的水α10)。油滴的存在对粘度增加至关重要。通过乳剂水相中的油滴和晶体双层结构的空间相互作用,可获得霜状稠度。

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