SOMETHING catches the eye on Anar-kali Food Street in Lahore, the capital of Punjab province. Bakers are pulling nan bread out of a tandoor oven, just as they did when the 200-year-old bazaar was founded. One detail, however, is strikingly contemporary: synthetic paper hairnets, in a vivid shade of green. "We are worried about the food inspector," explains Muhammad Aslam, as he wraps dough around a stone.
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