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Introducing the Sustainability Challenge of Textiles and Clothing

机译:介绍纺织品和服装的可持续性挑战

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On both the supply and demand side, acknowledgement of the plurality and heterogeneity of actors, interests, and values connected to clothing is necessary. This acknowledgement is needed because clothing will continue be soaked with all kinds of socio-cultural distinctions and norms in all societies across the globe. The challenge is then how a plurality of pathway towards sustainability and responsibility can co-exist in fruitful interaction with the very basic human desire to look good, elegant, cool, and clean. The collection of articles in this special issue stresses that all involved actors need support for them to take more responsibility for sustainability in the textile and clothing industry. This applies for all kinds of consumers-from individual to street-level procurement officials-who might be further encouraged into sustainable practice through innovative consumer tools (e.g., corporate transparency guides, experiential learning in higher education, and procurement policy) that raise their understanding of the interests and actors involved in the making of fast, appealing, and affordable fashion and textiles. Important as well is the crucial role of their ability to engage in reflective awareness on the limits of different tools and expertise, including for instance critical assessment of how and why various actors attempt to create legitimacy for their actions by talking "transparency," "sustainability," and "eco-fashion." Identifying categories of consumers who might be supported as forerunners here is an important task for changing the practice of others, which has the potential of narrowing the gap between cognitive awareness of problems and behavioural change based on it. There is therefore a huge span between choice, dialog/capacity building, and problem solving. It is not possible to distribute responsibility equally. Many individual consumers cannot be expected to do much more than trying to be aware and competent buyers who choose available "ethical" products with a reflective mind, while some collective buyers (public or private) can be much more professional and equipped with expertise knowledge so that they can engage in further stakeholder dialogue and capacity building whose purpose is to promote sustainable and responsible management. An important lesson from this special issue is that sustainability management and responsibility taking must be long term and learning oriented. Sustainability and responsibility for sustainability will always be contested. Therefore, continued public debate on responsibility taking and the responsibility of involved actors is crucial. Research has an important role to play here in identifying strengths and weaknesses in present-day practice and offering suggestions about pathways forward.
机译:在供需双方,都必须承认与服装相关的参与者,利益和价值观的多样性和异质性。需要承认这一点是因为在全球所有社会中,衣服将继续被各种社会文化差异和规范所浸透。那么,面临的挑战是,如何实现人类可持续发展和责任感的多种途径,并与人类对美的,优雅的,酷的和干净的最基本的愿望进行富有成效的互动。本期特刊中的文章集强调,所有相关参与者都需要他们的支持,以承担起纺织服装行业可持续性的更多责任。这适用于所有类型的消费者-从个人到街头采购官员-可以通过创新的消费者工具(例如,企业透明度指南,高等教育中的经验学习以及采购政策)进一步鼓励他们采取可持续发展的实践方式快速,吸引人和负担得起的时装和纺织品生产所涉及的利益和参与者。同样重要的是,他们必须具有对不同工具和专业知识的局限性的反思意识,包括对各种行为者如何以及为什么试图通过谈论“透明度”,“可持续性”为其行为合法性进行批判性评估。 ”和“生态时尚”。在这里确定可能被支持为先驱者的消费者类别是改变他人行为的一项重要任务,这有​​可能缩小问题的认知意识与基于行为的行为改变之间的差距。因此,选择,对话/能力建设和问题解决之间有很大的距离。不可能平均分配责任。不能指望许多个人消费者要做更多的事情,而不是试图去了解和胜任的购买者,他们会以反思的心态选择可用的“道德”产品,而一些集体购买者(公共或私人)则可能更加专业,并具备专业知识,因此他们可以参与进一步的利益相关者对话和能力建设,其目的是促进可持续和负责任的管理。从这个特刊中获得的重要教训是,可持续发展管理和承担责任必须是长期的,并且是学习型的。可持续性和可持续性责任将永远存在。因此,继续就承担责任和相关行为者的责任进行公开辩论至关重要。在确定当前实践的优势和劣势并提供前进路径的建议方面,研究可以发挥重要作用。

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