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首页> 外文期刊>Journal of Archaeological Science >Dyes used in pre-Hispanic textiles from the Middle and Late Intermediate periods of San Pedro de Atacama (northern Chile): new insights into patterns of exchange and mobility
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Dyes used in pre-Hispanic textiles from the Middle and Late Intermediate periods of San Pedro de Atacama (northern Chile): new insights into patterns of exchange and mobility

机译：圣佩德罗·德·阿塔卡马（智利北部）中晚期的用于西班牙前纺织品的染料：对交换和流动方式的新见解

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Pre-Hispanic Andean textiles constitute the longest continuous textile record in the world, their structure and design being one of the most significant markers of group identity in Andean populations. Since the Late Formative Period (ca. 100-400 AD), the region around San Pedro de Atacama (SPA) in the Atacama desert of northern Chile has been part of a complex and extensive network of interacting polities through which raw materials, agricultural products, goods, people and ideas circulated in the South-Central Andes. The archaeological record in SPA abounds with textiles from various cultures that participated in such network. A study of these textiles would allow intercultural as well as diachronical comparisons. Numerous studies on textiles found in SPA have focused on their technological and iconographic features. This work addresses the identification of the organic dyes employed in the manufacture of 38 textiles found in funerary contexts in SPA from the Middle (ca. 400-1000 A.D.) and the Late Intermediate periods (ca. 1000-1450 A.D.), using high performance liquid chromatography with a diode array detector (HPLC-DAD). Purpurin and not alizarin was found in all red dyed fibers and indigotin (IND) and indirubin (INR) in all blue dyed fibers. Natural sources of these dyes are exogenous to SPA; their importation into SPA lasted for nearly a millennium. A positive correlation was found between [IND]/[INR] concentration ratio and the altitude of the place where the fiber was presumably dyed. Overall, the results indicate that finished garments and also raw dyes and ready-to-use dyed fibers were imported into SPA from neighboring regions and that foreign weavers were possibly active at SPA. (C) 2015 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.
机译：西班牙裔前的安第斯纺织品构成世界上最长的连续纺织品记录，其结构和设计是安第斯人口中最重要的群体认同标志之一。自形成后期（约公元100-400年）以来，智利北部阿塔卡马沙漠中圣佩德罗·德·阿塔卡马（SPA）周围的地区一直是复杂而广泛的相互影响政体网络的一部分，通过该网络，原材料，农产品，货物，人员和思想在安第斯中南部流传。 SPA中的考古记录比比皆是，参与该网络的各种文化的纺织品也很多。对这些纺织品的研究将允许跨文化以及历时的比较。 SPA中发现的许多纺织品研究都集中在其技术和图像特征上。这项工作致力于利用高性能来鉴定在SPA的葬礼中从中世纪（大约公元400-1000年）和中后期（大约公元1000-1450年）的葬礼中发现的38种纺织品的生产中所使用的有机染料的鉴定。二极管阵列检测器（HPLC-DAD）进行液相色谱分析。在所有红色染色的纤维中均发现有紫嘌呤而不是茜素，在所有蓝色染色的纤维中均发现了靛蓝素（IND）和靛玉红（INR）。这些染料的天然来源是SPA的外源。他们向SPA的进口持续了近一千年。在[IND] / [INR]浓度比与纤维可能染色的地方的高度之间发现正相关。总体而言，结果表明，成衣以及生染料和即用型染色纤维是从邻近地区进口到SPA的，外国织布厂可能活跃于SPA。 （C）2015 Elsevier Ltd.保留所有权利。

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