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Experiments on focusing unidirectional water waves

机译:聚焦单向水波的实验

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Results of four groups of experiments involving transient, mechanically generated water waves in a narrow wave tank are described. The purpose of these experiments was to investigate the limitations of the validity of linear theory predictions of the spatiotemporal structure of the surface elevation in focal regions. For unidirectional surface gravity waves, focusing occurs as a result of long waves overtaking short waves. Surprisingly, in our measurements, nonlinear effects are stronger in deep water than in intermediate depth water and are stronger in nonfocusing wave trains than in focusing wave trains. These trends can be explained by the observation that the dominant source of nonlinear interaction in our measurements was the Benjamin-Feir instability, which acts only over a limited duration in focusing wave trains, only in wave trains whose bandwidth is narrow, and only in deep water. Under conditions in which the Benjamin-Feir instability does not act (as is expected to be the case in the ocean), predictions that take into account amplitude-dependent dispersion but otherwise neglect nonlinear effects are in good agreement with measurements for wave trains with (ka)(max) slightly in excess of 0.30. [References: 18]
机译:描述了四组实验的结果,这些实验涉及在窄波水箱中瞬态机械产生的水波。这些实验的目的是调查线性理论预测焦点地区表面高程的时空结构的有效性的局限性。对于单向表面重力波,由于长波超过了短波而发生了聚焦。出乎意料的是,在我们的测量中,深水的非线性效应比中深水的非线性效应更强,非聚焦波系的非线性效应比聚焦波系的非线性效应更强。这些趋势可以通过以下观察来解释:我们的测量中非线性相互作用的主要来源是本杰明-费尔不稳定性,其仅在有限的持续时间内作用于聚焦波列中,仅在带宽较窄的波列中且仅在深处水。在Benjamin-Feir不稳定性不起作用的条件下(预计在海洋中会如此),考虑幅度依赖的色散但忽略非线性影响的预测与具有( ka)(最大值)略大于0.30。 [参考:18]

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