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首页> 外文期刊>Earth Surface Processes and Landforms: The journal of the British Geomorphological Research Group >Wave-forced dynamics in the nearshore river mouths, and swash zones
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Wave-forced dynamics in the nearshore river mouths, and swash zones

机译：近岸河口的波形动力学，以及斜纹区域

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摘要

The role of wave forcing on the main hydro-morphological dynamics evolving in the shallow waters of the nearshore and at river mouths is analyzed. Focus is mainly on the cross-shore dynamics that evolve over mildly sloping barred, dissipative sandy beaches from the storm up to the yearly timescale, at most. Local and non-local mechanisms as well as connections across three main inter-related subsystems of the nearshore - the region of generation and evolution of nearshore bars, river mouths and the swash zone - are analyzed. The beach slope is a major controlling parameter for all nearshore dynamics. A local mechanism that must be properly described for a suitable representation of wave-forced dynamics of all such three subsystems is the proper correlation between orbital velocity and sediment concentration in the bottom boundary layer; while specific dynamics are the wave-current interaction and bar generation at river mouths and the sediment presuspension at the swash zone. Fundamental non-local mechanisms are both infragravity (IG) waves and large-scale horizontal vortices (i.e. with vertical axes), both influencing the hydrodynamics, the sediment transport and the seabed morphology across the whole nearshore. Major connections across the three subsystems are the upriver propagation of IG waves generated by breaking sea waves and swash-swash interactions, the interplay between the swash zone and along-river-flank sediment transport and the evolution of nearshore sandbars. (c) 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.
机译：波浪强迫对近岸和河口河口浅水区发生的主要水力形态动力学的作用。重点主要是跨海岸动态，这些动态在大多数时间从风暴到年度尺寸普通的禁止倾斜，耗散的沙滩，最多。分析了本地和非本地机制以及近岸与三个主要相关子系统的联系 - 分析了近岸酒吧，河口和斜泥区的发电和演变。海滩斜率是所有近岸动态的主要控制参数。必须适当描述所有这三个子系统的波形强制动态的合适表示的局部机制是底部边界层中轨道速度和沉积物浓度之间的适当相关性;虽然特定的动态是河口的波浪电流相互作用和钢筋和泥浆区域的沉积物预设。基本的非本地机制是Intravavity（IG）波和大型水平涡旋（即垂直轴），都影响流体动力学，沉积物运输和整个近岸海底形态。三个子系统的主要联系是通过破坏海浪和斜摩擦相互作用产生的IG波的上游传播，斜扫区域与河流沉积物之间的相互作用以及近岸沙栏的演变。 （c）2019 John Wiley＆Sons，Ltd。

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